The Ordinary launches a new hair care line containing sulphates

Get ready because The Ordinary is launching a hair care line that could change your concept of "clean" beauty. On 22 February, the Canadian brand will make available a new range of products that includes a shampoo (for hair and body), a conditioner and a scalp treatment for the USA Market, while in Europe the range will be available on March 8th. So far, nothing strange, but if we read their names more carefully, which as usual are inspired by the main active ingredient, we discover that the shampoo will contain 4% sulphates. Commonly used for decades as a cleansing and foaming agent in toothpaste, detergents and other personal care items, sulphates gained a bad reputation when "clean" beauty became mainstream, so much so that they were banned from several stores such as Sephora's "Clean at Sephora" programme. Over the last few years, every brand in the industry has focused on packaging and advertising that emphasises "sulphate-free", so why is The Ordinary now using them again? Are sulphates really bad for you? BoF tried to ask some experts. Nicola Kilner, co-founder and CEO of Deciem, parent company of The Ordinary, said:

"There are so many ingredients that are quick to get a bad reputation without someone actually looking at how they work. Things go viral quickly and misinformation gets spread, particularly on social [media]. Ultimately, sulphates are the best way to clean hair, and what’s been wrong is the levels they have been used at."

Allen Sha, chemist and founder of Sha Consulting Group, a company specialising in product development for beauty and personal care brands, however, emphasises the benefits of shampoos with sulphates, which are ideal for optimal cleansing "if you have a healthy skin barrier, your skin isn’t overly sensitive and you’re looking for a cost effective product". New York dermatologist Whitney Bowe reminds us that sulphates are good cleansers because they "break apart grease" and explains that in personal care, the most commonly used sulphates are sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) or the milder sodium laureth sulphate (SLES). If used at too high a concentration, both types can compromise the skin barrier and irritate or dry out the scalp.

So what's the truth about sulphates? They are not an allergen, hormone disruptor or carcinogen. Used in low concentrations, sulphates are one of the most effective and cost-effective ingredients in cleansing hair and achieving a perfect lather. That's why The Ordinary, famous for both quality and affordability, has decided to use them at 4% in its new shampoos. How much do we want to bet that this less restrictive approach to choosing ingredients will trigger a change in clean beauty? And what are the next ingredients to be cleared through customs? Parabens or silicones perhaps? We'll see what kind of reaction we get to The Ordinary's new hair care line and we''ll find out.

The Ordinary is known for its ability to demystify ingredients and provide its audience with scientific and reliable evidence to support the chemical function of ingredients in its skin care. With its minimalist approach to hair care, the new hair care range focuses on scalp health with the same focus dedicated to skin care (so-called "hair skinification"). The routine consists of 3 products: the Sulfate Cleanser with 4% concentration for hair and body for the first step, the Behentrimonium Chloride 2% Conditioner to condition, and the Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA Serum to treat the hair by mimicking the hydration that hyaluronic acid has on the skin. Products are not available yet, but Deciem on its website has already implemented a button "Email me when available" to grab it as soon as its online.