History of the headband
How a simple piece of fabric became a cult
May 31st, 2023
With the fashion upsurge of the 1990s and 2000s, not only did garments such as low-waisted trousers and tube tops return, but also the hair accessories typical of those decades, such as hair ties, bandanas, barrettes and especially headbands. The minimalist appeal of the black (but also white and coloured) elastic headband is garnering hundreds of thousands of views on TikTok thanks to videos showing how best to wear and pair it, invading Pinterest mood boards, and landing on our wish lists so much so that Stylight Insights is seeing a 114 percent increase in "headband" requests compared to last year. Between quiet luxury and ballet-core aesthetics, there are plenty of modern it-girls wearing this chic yet functional accessory that's perfect for upgrading beauty style, even in a bad hair moment. Among the biggest fans of the simple headband with no bows, eccentric patterns or other superfluous bells and whistles is Bella Hadid, who wears it for a variety of occasions, from parties to the gym, from going out with her boyfriend to relaxing days at the family farm. The model and her eclectic way of pairing the headband, inspired by icons of the past such as Brigitte Bardot and Linda Evangelista, has also infected other celebrities, from Nicola Peltz Beckham to Hailey Bieber, who have contributed to the resurgence in popularity of an item whose roots go way back in time with their decision to wear it.
Headbands have taken many forms over the centuries, always vacillating between utilitarian and decorative functions. From the laurel wreaths of ancient Greece to the feathered headbands of the flappers of the Roaring Twenties, the feminists of the 1940s à la Rosie The Riveter, the colourful scarves of the hippies and the sporty staple of aerobics in the 1970s to the minimalist headbands of the preppies and wasps or the bon tonne headbands à la Gossip Girl - history has taught us that a simple piece of fabric tied on the head can take on a thousand different personalities. However, the monochrome, no-frills stretch pattern that is back in fashion today emerged in the late 1950s at the same time as the invention of stretch fabrics and the advent of less structured, simpler hairstyles that better suited a more dynamic lifestyle. According to Rachel Gibson, author and owner of Instagram page The Hair Historian, the headband reached its peak of popularity when Brigitte Bardot wore it in Contempt, a 1963 film by Jean-Luc Godard in which she played the estranged wife of a writer. The classic wide black headband contrasts with her slicked-back blonde hair, adding a more cerebral, earthy and complex, almost sophisticated touch to what was until then considered a blonde bimbo of French cinema.
The accessory finds a second life and a second interpretation when it is absorbed by the world of sport. In the 1980s, the concepts of fitness and aerobics become more mainstream, so the sporty headband anticipates the athleisure trend and eventually coincides with the image of a person dedicated to personal hygiene and physical activity, qualities that indicate economic opportunity and prosperity. From fitness divas like Jane Fonda and yuppies to the minimalist, slim, affluent It-girls of the 1990s, the road is short. Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, supermodels like Naomi and the stars of films like Clueless and I Know What You Did Last Summer became the references still imitated today by Irina Shayk, Kim Kardashian, Kendall Jenner and Laura Harrier in the spirit of quiet luxury.
"The higher you rise into the stratosphere of luxury, the simpler you feel," said Schiaparelli creative director Daniel Roseberry, explaining the concept for the FW23 collection, in which he chose simple black stretchy faces alongside sculptural garments, which, if anything, confirmed how much this ultra-basic model of a hair accessory has now become a status symbol for a certain type of rich, educated and sophisticated girl who would not look out of place in a sequel to Succession. So headbands are also taking centre stage at glamorous events like the Met Gala and the Cannes Film Festival, worn by Cardi B and Brie Larson respectively. Headbands are now part of the wardrobe of every self-respecting influencer and it-girl, from Bella Hadid to Chiara Ferragni, from Elsa Hosk, who also offers them in her new brand Helsa Studio, to Alexa Demie or Kaia Gerber. What are you waiting for to wear them?
Here's a little shopping guide with some models you can show off this summer.