What's this about skincare made of diamonds

Diamonds are your skin's best friend. If Marilyn were filming the famous scene from Gentlemen Prefer Blondes today, she might sing like this, because according to experts, the new must-have beauty products are made of diamonds. Many of us may not have known this, but as it turns out, these gems can not only sparkle on our locks, but also make our skin glow. That's why more and more skincare lines are incorporating diamonds into creams, serums, masks and treatments, and customers, especially celebrities, are being won over by these up-and-coming products because they're convinced that the most expensive ingredients are also the best. And who, who can afford it, wouldn't want to smear a true beauty elixir on their face?

Diamonds in skincare

The allure of diamonds makes it easy to assume that any skincare product containing the sparkling gem must work. Perhaps that's why they're not new to the world of dermatology. The stones are known to be particularly effective exfoliators due to their hardness (and diamonds are some of the hardest materials on earth). When you apply their ground powder to the skin, the gems act as an exfoliator, removing dead skin cells and making the skin's surface more radiant and smooth. This is why diamond powder is often used as an exfoliant, not just in beauty products. Skin guru Sonya Dakar, who is known as Gwyneth Paltrow's make-up artist, also uses diamonds in spa treatments, for example. Dakar offers a Diamond Peel facial that uses a wand tipped with crushed diamonds, followed by a diamond powder mask that sweeps away dead and discoloured skin to reduce hyperpigmentation and diminish fine lines, wrinkles and acne scars. A diamond-tipped wand is also used in microdermabrasion to polish the outer layer of skin. The advantage? Diamond microdermabrasion provides a more even exfoliation than other methods, such as traditional peels or chemical peels, reducing the risk of uneven skin texture or damage.

The impact of diamonds in beauty routines

Brands use diamonds as a "wow" element with ad hoc marketing strategies that are often more about the perception of luxury than scientifically proven benefits for the skin. So before we get into the cost, which is of course high and also brings potential ethical issues regarding the origin of the diamonds, we should better understand which product is really for us. If we are looking for a scrub, it is best to opt for a product with diamond powder. This is because unlike other facials that use abrasive materials such as crystals or microspheres, diamond facials use finely ground diamond particles that are gentle on the skin and great for exfoliating to remove dead skin cells. They also give the skin a more radiant appearance and even out the texture. Apart from exfoliating, diamond powders can't do much. Although diamond creams and serums can "help reflect light and give skin more radiance"," the benefits end at the surface. If we want a serum that delivers active ingredients effectively, it's worth reaching for one that contains nanodiamonds, which are diamond particles that are less than 100 nanometres in size. These super-small diamond particles are able to penetrate deep into the skin, stimulating blood flow and preparing the skin to absorb the active ingredients associated with them. Nanodiamonds have an exceptionally high absorption rate, and when they chemically combine with active anti-ageing ingredients, they plump up the skin and smooth out small signs of ageing. That's not enough? Diamond nanoparticles also bind well with water, keeping skin hydrated for longer, while their antimicrobial properties could help reduce the risk of wound infections and speed healing.

Diamond products

Given their benefits and appeal, why shouldn't diamonds be used in skincare? That's probably what plastic surgeon Yannis Alexandrides thought before he founded 111Skin, a cosmetic brand that offers serums, creams and masks with diamond powder. According to the brand's statement, "black diamond microspheres are used to deliver active ingredients such as vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, collagen and arbutin to the deeper layers of the skin where they can target and regenerate cells." Scrolling down the list of 111Skin fans, we discover the names of Kim Kardashian, Bella Hadid, Cara Delevingne and Victoria Beckham. Given the looks and popularity of these celebrities, the combination of ingredients chosen by Alexandrides seems pretty effective. Wondering about the prices? Their most expensive product is the Celestial Black Diamond Cream, a US$665 moisturiser that promises to plump up wrinkles, even out skin tone and stimulate collagen production. Competitors that harness the properties of diamonds include Omorovicza's Blue Diamond Super Cream, KNESKO's Diamond Radiance collagen face mask, Natura Bissé's Diamond Life Infusion Serum and La Mer's The Refining Facial.