Do men have an issue with skincare?

How to convince your boyfriend to get into skincare? Give him products labeled "for men": this is the ironic but provocative introduction to a video by Maddalena D’Agostini, also known as "the chemistry of TikTok." The girl goes on to shift the focus to the behavior of male consumers when buying skincare products. Often, they prefer cosmetics labeled "man," stored in dark-colored packaging or, as Maddalena suggests, in packaging reminiscent of the arrangement of tools. However, the "problem" of the choice does not lie in this aspect, but rather in the fact that the functionality of the product is completely ignored. But is it just viral theories on TikTok, or is there scientific research behind it?

"Scientists are still studying this phenomenon; you will find many articles on PubMed. For men, the "oily or dry skin" discussion doesn't matter; what matters to them is that it says "for men". Supporting the chemist's words are the data from a recent study by the "Global Cosmetic Industry magazine". The survey revealed that 87% buy products "specially made for men," with 42% opting for unisex brands and 13% buying products intended for women.

Why are more and more men getting into the skincare world?

Kantar, the global leader in providing insights, reveals that "men are more than ever willing to spend money on cosmetic and beauty products." By 2028, the global male beauty and skincare market is estimated to be worth about £115 billion, an increase from the nearly £80 billion in 2022. We had already talked about the exponential increase in men's makeup purchases, but when did this great interest in "male grooming" start? A study from the University of Halmstad highlights how, since the '80s, men have transitioned from being strong and virile to the image of a "dandy," taking care of themselves, following fashion, and remaining masculine despite their feminine and sensitive side. However, this trend has not always been present throughout history. In today's reality, thanks to data provided by Ipsos, we can affirm that more than half of men use beauty products, and among the main motivations are, on one hand, the desire to take care of themselves and, on the other hand, to improve their appearance. Only 15% have never used them and have no intention of using them in the future; among the main reasons are the perception of not needing them, the feeling of diminished masculinity, and a lack of knowledge of the benefits.

To identify additional causes, the "Global Cosmetic Industry magazine" asked respondents to express, in a sentence, the reasons they buy self-care products. At the top of their list are "they help me express my true self" (62%), "they help correct something I'm insecure about" (58%), "I like my appearance after using these products" (39%), "they emphasize my natural attributes" (36%), "it has become more acceptable for men to wear makeup without stigma" (37%), and "it looks great on famous men, why not?" (27%).

Can opposite trends coexist?

If while scrolling on TikTok, we come across videos that mock the concept of masculinity, with phrases like "real men don't do skincare," five minutes later, on Instagram, we are admiring the new babygirl trend, preparing to mark the future of menswear. Therefore, we live in a digital and social ecosystem where trends, topics, and perspectives coexist, in total antithesis to each other. The fight against toxic masculinity, emphasis on gender stereotypes, and freedom of expression are just some of the elements simultaneously populating our public debate.

Will 2024 be the year when men develop more awareness in buying skincare products?

Perhaps we need to start with advertising to find an answer. The analysis of a corpus composed of advertisements for L'Oréal Men, Nivea Men, and Clarins Men shows that the male face is generally constructed as a "problem" that can be treated through the consumption of skincare products. Doing skincare enhances facial visual skills and therefore normalizes beauty practices, encouraging men to take care of and work on their skin, which for some may be considered a feminization practice. Conversely, advertisements employ masculine traits and strategies that connect cosmetic products to traditional values of masculinity. The beauty of the male body turns the consumption of skincare products into a performance through which men can maintain their already privileged status in society, reaffirming the double standard of aging (Sontag, 1972). The current challenge for beauty brands is to build awareness around the topic. Dig deep into the needs, desires, and behaviors of men in their relationship with beauty and personal care, to avoid creating strategies too focused on stereotypes, with particular attention to generational differences. The focus should be on advertising campaigns that highlight the product's functions, limiting gender differences or the needs of too niche an audience.

What do you think, have you noticed this behavior in yourselves or those around you, or do you believe there is a general, well-distributed awareness in the choice of skincare product purchases?