Why we should not wash our face with cleanser as soon as we wake up

The alarm clock rings. Lazily, we leave the bed and head to the bathroom. One of the many small gestures that are part of our morning routine, along with brushing our teeth and having breakfast, is to open the sink, let the water flow, and wash our face thoroughly. Moms have taught us: a nice stream of fresh (or warm) water is excellent for hygiene and gives us a boost to wake up, starting the day with energy. But is it really so? According to many, not really.

Until recently, the prevailing thought was the constant need to rid our skin of oils, smog, and dirt that clog pores. However, as skincare has evolved into an obsession with numerous steps and products, many people today overcleanse their faces, resulting in sensitized skin causing issues like dryness and redness. Thus, a new school of thought suggests stopping morning cleansing to see a positive change in the skin. Kate Hudson confessed to Allure Magazine that she no longer washes her face in the morning because her sensitive skin cannot tolerate hot water and cleansers. Cameron Diaz, Salma Hayek, french pharmacist Natacha Bonjout, Angela Caglia, the makeup artist for Danish top model Helena Christensen, and many other creators on Instagram and TikTok also advise people to simplify their morning routine by skipping cleansing to give the skin a chance to rebuild its natural protective barrier.

Not washing the face in the morning is beneficial to the skin barrier

The main argument against morning cleansing revolves around the skin barrier, the outermost layer that plays a vital role in sealing water and electrolytes in the skin to maintain the natural balance of hydration and the microbiome. Cleansing the epidermis in the morning removes the natural oils produced by the skin, leaving it dry and potentially causing irritations. Moreover, it destroys the delicate layer of sebum that the skin produces overnight to protect itself from external irritants like pollutants or harmful bacteria. When the microbiome is compromised, the skin is no longer able to ward off inflammation and tends to become drier, itchier, and more sensitive. So, if we want our skin to be healthy, well-cared-for, and aesthetically beautiful, why not preserve the exceptional protective shield we naturally produce?

Washing vs. rinsing the face

Skipping morning face cleansing doesn't mean going out with yesterday's makeup residue or eyes sealed from hours of sleep. A good beauty routine right after getting out of bed involves understanding the difference between washing and rinsing the face. Washing involves using cleansers, products that play a role in removing makeup, impurities, and excess sebum from the skin. For face rinsing, on the other hand, only water is needed, without adding anything else. Since during the night, the skin is not exposed to as many external agents (such as pollen, smog, makeup) as during the day, there is practically nothing to clean in the morning. All that needs to be removed are a few dead skin cells, a bit of sweat, and a bit of excess sebum. And for this, warm water and a clean towel are sufficient. Or, as many French girls suggest, just spray thermal water, rosewater or floral tonic all over the face before applying vitamin C serum and SPF. This is valid only if the skin is properly cleaned in the evening, where it's appropriate to include a cleanser in the routine to thoroughly remove all impurities.

Is it better to wash the face in the morning or evening?

Cleansing is essential both from a strictly hygienic perspective and to keep the epidermis in good condition, but the crucial step in the daily skincare routine is evening cleansing. Using cleansers, chosen based on individual needs, is crucial to remove the excess sebum layer, dirt, pollution, sunscreen, makeup, and anything else that accumulates on the skin surface throughout the day. If we don't do this, external agents clog pores, leading to blackheads, increased skin oxidation causing dullness, and accelerated skin aging. When we thoroughly cleanse the facial skin in the evening, there is no need to do it again in the morning because there is nothing to purify. In fact, avoiding water and cleansing products preserves the work done by the skin overnight when it enters repair mode, forming unique substances that bind moisture to the skin barrier. The result will be soft, elastic, and healthy skin.

Who should never skip morning cleansing?

It has been proven that excessive use of cleansers can be too harmful to the skin and damage our skin microbiome. Therefore, washing the face in the morning is a step that can be skipped if a deep face cleansing is done in the evening, preferably with the double cleansing method, using an oil-based or micellar water-based cleanser followed by a gentle water-based cleanser. This way, any remaining impurities are removed, leaving the skin clean and ready to absorb skincare products applied before bedtime. But there are exceptions. Those with oily or acne-prone skin should also incorporate morning face washing into their beauty routine using a gentle cleanser or a specific product that can help remove excess sebum and dead skin cells that can clog pores. It's also a good idea not to skip morning cleansing if your evening skincare includes products or ingredients, such as retinol, that do not interact well with the sun.