K-beauty's new goal is inclusivity

In 2017, Fenty Beauty by Rihanna launched 40 foundation shades, raising the bar for diversity and inclusivity in the beauty industry. This move proved that these two elements are crucial for long-term success in the highly competitive beauty market. Inclusive beauty can drive higher revenues (Pro Filt'r generated $72 million in media value in its first month), enhance brand image, and strengthen consumer relationships by making people feel represented and valued. Western brands quickly embraced this lesson—just look at Rare Beauty and Haus Labs, which offer a broad range of shades. Now, even K-beauty brands are facing the same challenge.

K-Beauty's Global Expansion and the Call for Inclusivity

K-beauty is a massive industry, projected to grow to $9.05 billion by 2029. Its success has gone far beyond South Korea, influencing global beauty trends with innovations like glass skin, cushion foundations, and double cleansing. In 2023 alone, K-beauty exports were valued at $7.65 billion. However, with growth comes challenges. The biggest demand from international consumers is a more diverse shade range in foundations, concealers, BB creams, and other complexion products. For South Korean brands, originally catering to an ethnically homogenous market, this is a new shift. To truly expand their reach, they must develop skincare and cosmetics for darker skin tones, rather than limiting their offerings to fair-skin-friendly shades.

The TIRTIR Case: A Model for Inclusive Change

Social media plays a crucial role in holding beauty brands accountable. Influencers and everyday users review and critique products, and how brands respond can determine success or failure. A standout example is TIRTIR, a K-beauty brand that listened and adapted, which was neither superficial nor fell into performative inclusivity, as happened some time ago with Youthforia. When beauty creator Miss Darcei went viral for criticizing the brand's limited foundation range of just nine light shades, TIRTIR took action. They launched 40 shades of the Mask Fit Red Cushion, making them one of the few K-beauty brands with an inclusive cushion foundation line. This bold move skyrocketed their sales, landing them at the top of Amazon's beauty category. Their revenue soared from $9.2 million in 2018 to $171.9 million in 2023. Miss Darcei, once a critic, is now a brand ambassador, proving that genuine inclusivity pays off. However, not all brands are willing—or able—to make meaningful changes while maintaining high-quality standards.

The Future of K-Beauty: Adapt or Fall Behind

The TIRTIR case proves that listening to consumer feedback benefits both brands and customers. But how can companies achieve the highest level of customer satisfaction and inclusivity? For smaller brands, this challenge may be difficult—or even financially unsustainable—due to high production costs. So, what is the best approach for others? Mona Lisa Hanson, CMO of Seoul Cosmetic Surgery, and Fama Ndiaye, CEO of AGASKIN, creators of the K-Beauty Cares For You campaign, emphasize that K-beauty is no longer just a Korean trend—it’s a global movement. With millions of loyal customers outside of Korea, brands must ensure that underrepresented communities feel heard and valued. This means collaborating with diverse talents—from product researchers to creative teams and models—throughout every stage of development, from R&D to beauty campaigns and marketing strategies.

The Second Wave of K-Beauty: Expanding Beyond Skincare

Hanson and Ndiaye, along with brands like Yepo Beauty, Jayjun, and AmorePacific, are leading the charge in what Sarah Chung Park, founder of Landing International, calls the second wave of K-beauty. "The first wave of K-beauty was mainly focused on skincare, while the second wave has expanded into makeup, haircare, body care, and fragrance," says Chung Park. "A key difference is the increasing demand for K-beauty products from diverse consumers on TikTok, across all ethnicities and skin tones." This shift has led to a new category of skincare-makeup hybrids, such as foundations infused with hyaluronic acid and concealers with brightening agents like niacinamide.

The Future of K-Beauty: Innovation Meets Inclusivity

To maintain their original appeal, rooted in meticulous skincare routines, innovative products, and natural ingredients, Korean beauty brands must adapt to a larger, more diverse global audience. They need to be responsive yet intentional, because, as Hanson and Ndiaye point out, genuine efforts toward equity and inclusivity are not just business opportunities—they help promote authentic representation and dismantle systemic biases.