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Beauty and MFW: our story and what we have learned

From Dolce & Gabbana to Moschino, passing through Emporio Armani, Marco Rambaldi and Avavav

Beauty and MFW: our story and what we have learned From Dolce & Gabbana to Moschino, passing through Emporio Armani, Marco Rambaldi and Avavav

When fashion week arrives, the city of Milan lights up almost like it's Christmas. The streets fill up, and in front of the show venues, content creators, photographers, industry professionals, fans, and fashion enthusiasts gather. Everyone is looking for the star of the moment, who will undoubtedly be sitting front row at a few fashion shows. People seek inspiration from stylish looks and perhaps even the chance to catch a glimpse of models, to absorb with their eyes a piece of that world that seems so distant yet so beautiful, exclusive, and absolute. Taking up an increasingly important space in this fashion celebration is beauty—everything from skincare to nails, including fragrances. More and more partnerships between wellness and fashion brands are coming to life in the most chaotic yet thrilling moment of all: the backstage. At nss G-Club, we had the chance to step behind the scenes, and this is what we learned. Because a runway look isn't complete and cannot fully express itself without makeup and hair.

For Dolce & Gabbana, beauty is a Made in Italy affair

Stefano Gabbana told us himself: "We are very proud to have created our Beauty division in December 2022 and to have made it a true Made in Italy project. Even in beauty, we aim to showcase the craftsmanship of our country. The goal is to highlight our excellence; the best cosmetic producers are Italian, and this key aspect is not widely known. It is a project we deeply wanted. Fragrance and makeup are like clothing—something everyone chooses and adapts to their own style to express their personality." This philosophy materialized in the looks of the Cool Girls from the FW25 show, designed to enhance each individual's natural radiance—not only visible but also tangible. For Dolce & Gabbana, true beauty lies in one's own individuality, which should never be hidden.

Emporio Armani's makeup elegance takes inspiration from the '90s

"The story of Giorgio Armani is about elegance, simplicity, timeless beauty, and attention to detail," reveals Hiromi Ueda, global makeup artist for Armani Beauty, who curated the beauty looks for Emporio Armani's FW25 runway. "For me, elegance is a blend of confidence and authenticity. It’s not just about appearance but also about how a person moves with grace and self-assurance," and the same principle applies to Armani Beauty. That’s why the fashion show look drew inspiration from the '90s supermodels, known for their radiant and fresh complexions, faces naturally sculpted with bronzer, and eyes subtly elongated with soft eyeshadows.

At Moschino, uniqueness reigns; at Marco Rambaldi, inclusivity takes the spotlight

"Through makeup, we wanted to create a tangible and physical contribution to the concept of accessories. Like tailoring, Moschino’s makeup is meant to be bespoke, tailored to the individual. We emphasized inclusivity, celebrating the uniqueness of each model, regardless of gender identity. And it all starts with skin preparation," Michele Magnani, makeup artist for MAC Cosmetics, told us from the FW25 Moschino backstage. Inclusivity is also the key theme for Marco Rambaldi, whose FW25 collection, "Memoria Futura," is dedicated to mothers—"our own, those found, imagined, and future ones"—inspired by the teachings of Michela Murgia, who reminded us that family is the one you choose, a queer family. In beauty, this translates into glowing skin, thanks to Olivella, as well as punk elements (metallic lips, bold mascara, and playing cards clipped into hair) blended with natural touches and a rosy complexion.

Even nails (and hands) have their moment

In all of this, the beauty look becomes complete and all-encompassing. It appears in elaborate, baroque hairstyles like those seen at Antonio Marras, sometimes referencing subcultures (Aniye Records), sometimes evoking a sense of controlled yet soft chaos (Luisa Beccaria). And it also extends to nails. More than that, to hands. Think of the red fingertips and golden claws at Moschino, or the ultra-dark nails at Emporio Armani, contrasting with the rest of the makeup look.

Avavav embraces raw, textured beauty

Michele Magnani also shared insights from the FW25 Avavav show. Here, makeup is raw and textured, made of earthy elements and smudged lipsticks, scars, and deliberate disorder. "Today's makeup celebrates rebirth, exorcising fears, emerging from the earth and grass. It’s playful yet provocative," he explains. "Some models will have scars and even tears of blood, symbolizing that pain, too, can make us feel beautiful—perhaps even more beautiful. It’s a deeper beauty, not fleeting. The aesthetic is gothic and messy, deconstructed yet organic, softened with essential oils and gloss to blur the lines."

Aniye Records Brings Back Gothic Grunge (and Maximalist Makeup)

Speaking of gothic vibes, the makeup and hairstyles at Aniye Records, led by creative director Alessandra Marchi, were nothing short of iconic. Towering, voluminous hair instantly brought to mind Amy Winehouse. Dark, heavy eyeshadows and thick, jet-black eyeliner were further enhanced with silver star embellishments, some even drawn directly onto the models' bodies, creating an explosion of rock-inspired maximalism that we had been missing. The overall mood was pure grunge, drawing clear inspiration from the music world. Did you spot the Nirvana t-shirt?