Will polynucleotides replace botox?

Commonly known as the polynucleotide treatment, the salmon sperm facial has all the characteristics to become the latest beauty addiction, especially given the growing number of fans it has gained. When it comes to the latest skincare discoveries, health guru Jennifer Aniston is always open to experimentation—just like reality TV queen Kim Kardashian, who revealed on The Kardashians that she told her mother, Kris Jenner, "I got a salmon sperm facial.” She then clarified, “With salmon sperm injected into my face."

What are Polynucleotides?

"Polynucleotides are essentially small fragments of DNA and RNA," explains Dr. Richard Westreich, a facial plastic surgeon based in New York. "When used on the skin, these fragments can stimulate the production of new blood vessels, more collagen, and keratinocytes, which help generate new cells. This results in a fresher, healthier, and more hydrated appearance." This uniquely named facial has already been widely used in the medical field to promote wound and scar healing. More recently, it has found application in reconstructive aesthetic medicine, offering a non-invasive surgical approach that appears particularly effective in the eye area, stimulating collagen and elastin production while reducing inflammation and regenerating the area as a whole. "Polynucleotides offer a more natural approach to treating the eye area as they act as biostimulators," states Dr. Karen Doherty, who runs a clinic in London. "This means they stimulate the skin's natural cellular processes, which slow down with age."

The Effects of Salmon Sperm on Celebrity Skin

All of this, without swelling or trauma to the lymphatic system. Jennifer Aniston, glowing as ever, humorously confirmed on Jimmy Kimmel Live that she’s waiting patiently for the results. "I trusted that it was salmon sperm, but it didn’t really look like it. They apply it with microneedling." Indeed, as facialist Adeela Crown confirms, the process may be slow but is highly effective, thanks to a system that teaches cells to produce new ones over time. A tempting natural alternative to Botox and fillers, it’s a regenerative method that enhances skin elasticity and firmness.

This breakthrough has been trending in the K-beauty scene for some time now. South Korea, known for its cutting-edge skincare innovations—from snail mucin treatments to vampire facials, cryotherapy, and magnetic face masks—is now bringing salmon sperm facials, also known as Rejuran SkinBooster, into the Western mainstream. While polynucleotide injections have been available in Europe and Korea for several years, in the U.S., the FDA has yet to approve the procedure. Currently, it’s only permitted as a topical treatment applied post-microneedling to enhance absorption. The trend is rapidly gaining popularity among clients who prefer a fresh, radiant, and well-rested appearance over an artificial look.

How is the Aesthetic Medicine Market Responding?

In response to consumer demand, the market is adjusting accordingly: the global polynucleotide-based injectables industry is expected to grow by 10% annually, reaching a projected £180 million in the UK in the coming years. However, at present, it does not pose a serious competitor to the filler industry or the serum market, which are expected to reach £7.9 billion and £6.3 billion, respectively, by 2032. Regarding the cost and duration of the treatment, most protocols involve three sessions spaced 15 days apart, with peak results appearing after about four months. A full series of treatments costs between £450 and £2000, with effects lasting approximately nine months.

Isamaya Ffrench’s Take (and PETA’s)

Makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench, a skincare enthusiast, says polynucleotides are "the most regenerative and restorative treatment I've ever tried. My skin looks plumper, firmer, and significantly more hydrated." Parisian aesthetic doctor Dr. Antoni Calmon adds, "Polynucleotides enhance the skin’s natural beauty without altering facial features." And what about PETA, the global animal rights organization? So far, they’ve only responded with a meme, but we expect more substantial reactions soon. Will the positive reviews from celebrities and beauty professionals be enough to establish polynucleotides as the next big thing in beauty?