From Puglia to Milan: the future of fashion is VÌEN

Fashion Week in Milan ended a couple of days ago, a very particular edition that despite the initial difficulties and doubts saw many brands bring their collections on real catwalks. Among these, a very young and made in Italy brand, indeed made in Puglia, VÌEN.

The designer Vincenzo Palazzo gave life to his brand, together with his friend Elena, pattern maker, about 3 years ago: last Thursday the SS21 collection was presented at Museo della Permanente and appears in the prestigious windows of Rinascente, a few steps from Milan Cathedral, among the talents selected by Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. More than that, WHITE Milano also welcomed the new collection of VÌEN in its spaces as a special guest during the Fashion Week.

The collection presented during Fashion Week - as well as all the brand's products - is 100% made in Puglia, a contemporary reinterpretation of Italian tailoring and tradition. But behind every item there is a broader narrative, telling about music, Japanese culture, and research of materials. Designed, conceived and developed during the lockdown, the collection reflects the many facets of the Apulian designer.

On the occasion of the event organized by the brand at 10CorsoComo based on Italian music and gourmet food, Vincenzo told nss G-Club about his relationship with music, the inspiration behind the collection and other details about the style and evolution of VÌEN.

How did your project with VÌEN start? 

Since I was a kid I have always dreamed of having my own brand, then sometimes things just happen. As a child I played in some rock bands and from there I started working in the music scene, organizing parties, up to the artistic direction of large festivals and opening a club in Puglia, entering the national and international music scene.
When Elena, one of my best friends, graduated, I told her "come on, let's do it!" and so 3 years ago VÌEN was born.

Your collections combine inspiration from music, tailoring, Japanese culture. What inspires you most in the creation of a collection?

Music for me is the soundtrack, while I listen to certain music my mind begins to travel and thus the ideas for the collection arrive. I put on my headphones, and music creates the right attitude and the right atmosphere to get inspired. My collections are all born from the imagination, from a vision that is shaped in my mind.

The new collection was created during a very particular period. Do you think the pandemic affected the collection and your creativity in some way?

The collection was certainly very influenced by the period we lived: I found myself in Putignano, in Puglia, locked up in my home alone, not knowing what to do, so one day I decided to open some boxes (from when I moved 5 years earlier) with old CDs inside and I started listening to them, rediscovering music genres that I listened to as a kid, shoegaze and post punk in particular, and I took inspiration from that period. From music and style.

Being in Puglia, in spring, I was also inspired by the flowers in my garden with Mediterranean colors, which I replicated in the patterns and volumes recreated in the dresses of the collection, creating a strong contrast with the post punk inspiration.

Is the choice and use of materials important in your collections?

It is essential: I look for fabrics that visually recall the past and the clothes of the past, which are at the same time modern and innovative to the touch. For example, I often use Japanese fabrics that are very raugh to the touch but of the highest quality. I let myself be inspired by different eras. For example, the approach of Viennese art from the Secession period, their transition from neo-romanticism to modern.
I also love vintage: in the past the dresses had different volumes and lines, a better fit. This is also thanks to the fabrics that were highly sought after. The idea of ​​tailoring has been lost a bit, and I try to bring it back into my collections also through the selection of materials.

Would you give any advice to emerging young talents who approach the world of fashion? Do you think that in fashion, especially in Italy, there is room for new talents?

Despite the very complicated situation, I think that if you have the passion and the skills, you need to try. I don't think it's right, especially now, to open a new brand because it's a "trend", but if it's really a goal and a dream, you should try to make it happen.

In Italy it is difficult to emerge, for many reasons, but there are many initiatives that support young emerging talents. An example is the project launched by Rinascente in collaboration with Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, which brought my collection to the windows of a prestigious store next to Duomo. It is crazy to see my clothes in those windows!