Who is Nensi Dojaka, the winner of LVMH Prize 2021
A journey through the contrasts of the most innovative designer of the moment
October 28th, 2020
In 2019 Nensi Dojaka completed her MA at Central Saint Martins in London. For the occasion the designer showed her Spring-Summer 2020 graduate collection on the catwalk during the LFW, thus entering the fashion radar of stylists, editors and most avid addicts. To date, Nensi is among the most interesting emerging designers in the creative landscape - thanks to her ultra-feminine aesthetic and her sense of deconstruction - so that she has just received the LVMH Prize 2021.
Free femininity
Nensi Dojaka, twenty-seven years old and Albanian origin, began to shape her label among the desks of the London College of Fashion, to then define it during her MA at Central Sain Martins. Her style focuses on a strong conceptualization of the female universe which finds its roots the freedom of image. According to the Dojaka woman, femininity and sensuality lies in showing yourself as you want to be seen. And in fact, in that first lookbook, Nensi had invited the models to document their outfits on their iPhone, so they could appropriate their own image and choose for themselves.
The transparencies of the garments and the bodies of the models are not conceived to communicate sexuality, but instead they represent a new power, unleashed and bold, with deep contrasts, and that explores the many facets of femininity and what it represents to people, independently from the brand itself. There is therefore no single definition, or categorization, of what femininity is, and rather it remains versatile, multiform, patchwork, like Nensi Dojaka clothes.
Cutting-edge aesthetics
Recently Nensi has been presented among the Fashion East 2020 emerging talents for the autumn-winter collection, where once again she strikes through her enveloping silhouettes with reasoned and complex architectures, elevated through the layers of veiled silks and the contrasts between sharp lines and softer details. A taste of the 90s but also very now, which mixes raw and deep elements with the inspirations of today's world. Her looks are impalpable but structured, light as a butterfly and tinted with punk tones. The contrast is an integral part of the garments. The woman is self-confident, but there is a vulnerability, a fragility which sets off the weight of gravity. And the play of veiling, between the overlapping layers enriches the dress, contrasting with the purity of lines, materials, and the naked skin. Avant-guard is the Nensi Dojaka aesthetic, in its extreme simplicity and never taken for granted. The designer is inspired by the great names of the nineties fashion scenario, like Helmut Lang, Ann Demeulemeester, and Alessandro Dell'acqua, with their poetic and subversive elements, to create a constant duality of the product.
Nensi Dojaka's clothes are the result of careful construction that focuses on the quality of the materials. They communicate honesty and want to propose an alternative to the usual clothes. The buyer is a strong woman who is not afraid to look different, or to break the mould of a beautiful dress. Nensi herself claims to love mixing fabrics: the stretch georgette with the finest jersey and tailored fabrics. A perfect mix of attention to detail, quality, but also irony, which make the designer more relevant to the eyes of the entire fashion industry.
Through her clothes, the designer conquered everyone and immediately gained partnerships with luxury retailers SSENSE, as well as the endorsement of celebrities like Bella Hadid.