The Fashion Trends for Fall/Winter 2022-223
From the fashion months' runways rolling from corsets to aviator jackets
March 10th, 2022
The Jacquemus and Burberry shows unveiled in these hours marked the end of Fashion Month. Brands and designers have presented collections for autumn/winter 2022 that are faithful to their heritage, inspired by different references and often influenced by the complicated historical period we are living in. Despite the differences, it is easy to find similarities and shared trends. Let's get ready to go shopping, filling our wardrobe with miniskirts, corsets, wide-leg trousers and aviator jackets. Shapes range from oversized to slim, but there are three materials to focus on: denim, leather and sheer fabrics, better if encrusted with crystals and lace to ensure the wow effect.
Here are the major trends of FW22 Fashion Weeks.
Flight jacket
Amelia Earhart, the first woman to fly solo across the Atlantic, is next season's fashion icon. Don't you think so? Look at the Miu Miu fashion show, where a model looked an awful lot like the famous American aviatrix, complete with leather cargo pants and an ultra-cropped flight jacket. The jacket is back in the spotlight with micro or oversized volumes. Ferrari, LaQuan Smith and Off-White opted for the first solution, while Louis Vuitton, Lemaire and Prada preferred a more enveloping silhouette. Equally popular and of military origin is the MA-1 bomber jacket, selected by Versace and Raf Simons and decorated with 3D flower appliqués by Prada.
White tank top
Can a simple tank top be the coolest item for autumn/winter 2022? According to the latest fashion shows, yes. It all started with Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, who chose to use this essential as the basis for the looks in Prada's new collection, wearing it under transparent dresses or paired it with sophisticated midi skirts made up of layering fabrics and encrusted with flowers, crystals and feathers. The step from underwear item to must-have is short. Matthieu Blazy consecrated the new status of the white tank top by presenting it in his debut collection as creative director of Bottega Veneta. The Parisian designer proposed it together with nubuck trousers that look like jeans, an outfit similar to the leather vest-pants combo seen on the Chloé catwalk.
Corset
The corset is evolving and is conquering the catwalks. From iron cages and whalebone slats, symbols of constriction, it is now a vehicle of empowerment, of a positive sensuality to play with and to shape according to our own style. We can give it a punk twist by combining it with tartan, wear it in a more casual way with jeans or with latex and skirts that reveal hold-ups and garters like a dominatrix. For the autumn/winter 2022 season, the corset acquires versatility: at Balmain it is a protective armour; at Dior it is a technological device able to smooth the affectation of even the most romantic outfit; at Gucci, in collaboration with adidas, it shows its athleisure side; while at Fendi it is super chic. At Versace, where there is a riot of tight bustiers and latex, the waist and hourglass shape is sexier than ever, almost fetishistic.
Denim
Denim never leaves our wardrobe. For the coming cold season, Diesel has declined it in every possible form, turning it into bralettes, micro mini-skirts, trench coats, patchwork maxi-skirts, jackets, shirts and, of course, jeans. For Renzo Rosso's brand, Glenn Martens has also proposed them in slim fit versions, but the model preferred by designers at the moment has a slouchy silhouette, ripped or decorated with beads and crystals, as seen on the Givenchy catwalk. The perfect outfit for FW22 is jeans and a white tank top (perhaps with the addition of a knitted cardigan), but this combination is also a must for any other season of the year.
Wide-leg pants
Whether you like your waist low or high, it doesn't matter. The only thing that matters is that your trousers are wide-leg, with a loose fit that seems almost stolen from the 1950s men's wardrobe, a bit like those worn by actress HoYeon Jung and the other models at the Louis Vuitton show. Nicolas Ghesquiere opted for a relaxed silhouette for his reinterpretation of rebellious teenagers, as did many other brands: from Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini to The Row, from Miu Miu to Max Mara, from Missoni to N°21. Equally popular with designers is the cargo model, which adds comfortable pockets to a fluid fit. Versace, Off-White and MSGM bring a new glamour touch to the item worn in the '90s by hip-hop stars and many other pop artists in the early 2000s.
Leather
Chanel dedicated its last show to tweed, Diesel played with denim, but many other brands preferred to present creations in leather. Fendi alternated impalpable fabrics with beautiful leather corsets, Saint Laurent and Prada opted for refined trench coats, Bottega Veneta and Missoni dyed it red. The must, however, is to adopt a head-to-toe look, as seen on the Sportmax catwalk. The clothes introduced by the Emilian brand are perfect for contemporary femmes fatales, the adults' version of Swinging London girls, in shorts, cropped jacket and high boots, from the Courreges FW22 collection.
See-through
On the SS22 catwalks, sheer fabrics, lace and silks that emphasize the silhouette and reveal the naked body were the absolute stars. This trend challenging our self-confidence is confirmed for the cold season too. Playing with our own sexuality and sensuality as per Coperni or Kim Shui is not for everyone. Those who want to try this look, without being too daring, can take an example from Prada and wear a transparent dress over a camisole and skirt or, as at Fendi, with bra and culottes.
Mini-skirts
Legs remain in the spotlight not only in the warm season, but also for next autumn/winter because mini-skirts will not be missing from our wardrobes. Miu Miu proposes ultra-low-waisted, very short mini-skirts, similar to those worn by tennis players; Diesel reduces them to a strip of fabric that makes them almost like belts; Coperni combines them with over-the-knee tights, and Blumarine with hold-ups; while for Courreges the perfect match is with over-the-knee boots. Leather, silk, covered with crystals and feathers, pleated, A-shaped or wrap... there are so many options. Ready to go shopping?
Tailoring
After the pandemic and the lockdown, along with the desire to party, there was a desire to return to a classic, almost formal elegance. It had already happened during the collections presented last year and the trend is confirmed for FW22 too. From MM6's power suits to Sportmax suits recalling the divas of Hollywood's Golden Age, from Prada's jacket-skirt combo to Valentino's fuchsia outfits, from Peter Do's maxi blazers to Gucci's double-breasted suits and Fendi's boleros, the key word is tailoring.