The eternal charm of the lace
From the romantic past that comes back to the SS22 runways
G-Club
August 22nd, 2022
August 22nd, 2022
Fashion has fallen in love with lace once again. After years relegated to underwear, the most romantic of fabrics is making a comeback on the catwalks, intercepting cottagecore trends and the rise of a hyperfeminine aesthetic that combines empowerment, sensuality and, why not, a hint of sweetness. If for Simone Rocha, Miu Miu, and Dolce & Gabbana it has always been a hallmark in womenswear, other brands have rediscovered it by declining it according to their own style, inserting it as a special detail or using it as a base for statement garments, even in menswear, demonstrating a broader interpretation of the concept of masculine garments and embracing the new wave of glam rock aesthetics, embodied by Damiano of Maneskin but also by Blanco at the 2022 Sanremo Festival. The optical effect that the fabric gives on the bodies is based on a harmony given by the interplay of full and empty weaves, which brings with it a mysterious and sensual value, also given by the wide use of the material in underwear since the early 1800s.
Legend has it that a young Venetian sailor brought as a gift to his beloved a seaweed from distant seas and that she, wanting to preserve its memory forever, copied its delicate contours and fretwork exactly using simple thread, creating what we now call lace. Actually, it was born in the 1400s in Venice thanks to the savoir-faire of expert embroiderers and then flourished with some variations in design and preciousness in France, Spain, England and Flanders. Lace and lace-making was true art, manual, time-consuming, particularly labor-intensive and, therefore, expensive, a characteristic that made it a privilege of the aristocracy for centuries. In the 13th century, the fashion of the time began to integrate it into women's underwear, giving it the hint of fetishism and air of sensuality that it still has today. The real turning point came with the Industrial Revolution, which, by speeding up the processing of lace, made it more accessible, while making it synonymous with elegance were the great maisons. Rochas and Chanel preferred it black, Dior and Balmain white. Since then, lace has entered our wardrobe and collective imagination developing a double soul linked on the one hand to the concept of romance and elegance and, on the other hand, to the idea of sensuality. There are so many images from pop culture over the years that have celebrated this dichotomy such as the wedding dresses of Kate Middleton and Blair from Gossip Girl, Madonna's look in the video of Like a Virgin, Monica Bellucci in the 1990s Blumarine ads, Jane Birkin at the Artist's Union Gala in 1969 with a minidress completely worked in lace with a very deep neckline or Britney Spears at the 2001 VMAs in total black see-through.
How to wear it today? By finding inspiration in the past, in the street style of it-girls like Gigi Hadid and Dua Lipa or from fashion weeks. For the spring/summer 2022 season Michael Kors chose a fifties inspiration, referencing refined divas such as Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly; Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini opts for boho 1970s silhouettes; Valentino plays with contrasts by mixing lace and denim, resulting in a series of cool, contemporary outfits; Gucci uses it to create retro femme fatale outfits; Louis Vuitton and Rodarte exploit its old-fashioned soul for their Roaring twenties creations; while in Giambattista Valli's collections it is the emblem of like-a-doll style.
AYA MUSE Black Elm Midi Dress
700€
PRADA Lace flared trousers
775€
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Lace-overlay cotton jersey T-shirt
280€
VAILLANT Pink Viscose Tank Top
461€
GANNI Lace Bodysuit
175€
FLEUR DU MAL Bouquet Lace Shrug
250€
ROUJE Paco bustier
115€
SELF-PORTRAIT Floral Lace Miniskirt
290€
GUCCI Lace Shorts
980€
