Celine's Age of Indieness for winter 2023

Celine has just hosted its first IRL fashion show since the beginning of the Covid-19 epidemic at the Wiltern Theater in Los Angeles, an art deco institution that, since it was founded in 1931, has hosted artists have shaped rock 'n' roll music such as Nick Cave & The Bad Seeds, Prince, The Rolling Stones, Lou Reed, Blur, Iggy Pop, The Strokes and Amy Winehouse. In the front row, the faces of Cindy Crawford, Courteney Cox, Austin Butler, Brie Larson and Emma Roberts stood out, guests enthusiastically applauding the outfits worn by Kaia Gerber, Dree Hemingway and the other models who alternated on the catwalk to the notes of Hello Operator, an original song by The White Stripes.

In this location that perfectly sums up the spirit of creative director Hedi Slimane, Hollywood glam and West Coast style met indie-sleaze. While Gen Z and the rest of the world are decreeing the return of the music and fashion trend, Slimane has never abandoned it, so much so that he has named Age of Indieness the winter 23 collection and remained faithful to skinny trousers, black leather, Fedoras, dramatic capes to be worn over denim and evening dresses, boots, slim ties, boho shirts, fringes and gold or silver lamé jackets that, together with rhinestones and sequins, illuminate tops, miniskirts, shorts and long dresses. 

It was a parade of cool girls and cool boys with a determined look, beautiful (and skinny), who feel in control of the world and their destiny, who dress like consummate rock stars even to go to the supermarket. The plus of the evening? After the show was over, guests were invited back to the lobby for some pizzas and chips in the shape of the Celine logo and then Iggy Pop, Strokes, Interpol and The Kills performed on stage. For a moment it feels like we've gone back to the early 2000s when Kate Moss teamed up with Pete Doherty and Alexa Chung with Alex Turner, on Celine's catwalk the same mood can be felt. In a present of uncertainties, knowing that Slimane will always remain true to himself has an illusorily heartening quality that helps one face the future.