Red trend for the AW 2023 2024

In ancient China, red was the sacred colour of the Chou dynasty; in the Middle Ages, people wore it as a sign of power and war; in the Baroque period, it began to be associated with sin; and even today, the associations that red evokes are love, passion, vital energy, the reflection of a combative, determined, open-minded and independent personality. In Indian medicine, the colour red is associated with the first chakra, which stands for the material aspects of life. In psychology, on the other hand, it is associated with energy, lively emotions, excitement and movement. When we wear it, we attract attention and radiate a strong aura, almost as if we are making a real statement of intent. That may be why experts have declared Viva Magenta, a mix of red and purple, the Pantone colour for 2023. But celebrities and designers, especially those walking the runway this fashion month, have decided to go even further and show all shades of red, from the boldest to the deepest.

Rihanna chose a full-red look for her appearance at the Super Bowl halftime show, consisting of jumpsuits by Loewe, outfits by Alaïa and trainers by MM6 Maison Margiela; followed by Kim Kardashian, who applauded the new Dolce&Gabbana collection while sitting in front of MFW with the brand's glittery set, which was in ruby red. The same deep, almost burgundy hue for Florence Pugh's gorgeous Valentino evening gown (paired with lipstick in the same shade) at the recent British Fashion Awards, which was swapped a few months later at the London Critics' Circle Film Awards for a bolder outfit by Robert Wun with a peplum detail and cowgirl hat with a veil. No one, not even Sam Smith, Kim Petras and their entire entourage, who all appeared in theatrical creations by Pierpaolo Picciolo for Maison Valentino, was more convincing in red than Doja Cat at the Schiaparelli Couture Show. The artist caught the attention of Paris photographers thanks to a "hellish" look chosen with the help of stylist Brett Alan Nelson, which included a body paint of more than 30,000 ruby red Swarovski crystals by Pat McGrath. Not enough for you? Miuccia Prada walked out on the runway at the end of the latest Prada show, dressed in total red.

David Koma

Bora Aksu

Blumarine

Burberry

Christopher Kane

Alberta Ferretti

Fendi

Nensi Dojaka

Sandy Liang

Marni

Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini

Prada

Proenza Schouler

Roksanda

Ermanno Scervino

Jason Wu

Dolce&Gabbana

Ferrari

Tory Burch

As demonstrated by MSCHF's Astro Boy-inspired rubber boots and the fashion month collections dedicated to the FW23 season, red in all shades from plum to cherry, ruby red to crimson is officially the power colour of the day. Fendi and Ferrari combined it with pink, Roksanda with black and Tory Burch with camel. Dolce&Gabbana and Nensi Dojaka used it to add sensuality to their lingerie-inspired outfits; David Koma chose it to enhance a mini dress with flowers linked by chains; Christopher Kane and Prada opted for a bright red to enhance the glossy effect of skirts and dresses. Blumarine developed its powerful appeal for its warriors; Marni used it as a base for maxi polka dots and Burberry for its signature check; while Bora Aksu and Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini brought a modern Little Red Riding Hood to the runway.

Why does everyone seem to love red so much? It's versatile, striking, can express sensuality or elegance, be eccentric or add a special touch to minimalist outfits. There are so many colours you can combine, depending on the effect you want to achieve. With black, for example, it becomes edgy; white softens it by creating a slight vintage mood. With pink, it's perfect for girly, delicate and soft looks; with brown, it makes a sophisticated combination, while with purple or blue, especially if it's bright, it has poppy vibes. So can we say that red is the new black?