A textile artwork that turns nature into fashion

Gabriele Colangelo is an icon of Italian fashion. With fifteen years of experience at the helm of his own brand and nine years as creative director of Giada, he has been instrumental in defining the identity and success of both brands. Their approach to fashion is characterised by a deep understanding of materials, experimentation with shapes and cuts and a strong sense of femininity. In this interview, we explored his SS24 collection and his unique vision of fashion that challenges the boundaries between art and design. Passionate about practising Ashtanga yoga, this talented designer has a deep connection to his work that is reflected in his constant search for inspiration and his conscious vision. Gabriele Colangelo represents one of the most sophisticated and intimate voices of Made in Italy, and his creativity continues to surprise and inspire the fashion world.

Gabriele Colangelo's SS24 collection is a tribute to nature and craftsmanship. The designer was inspired by the French textile artist Aude Franjou, who is known for her use of hemp and linen fibres to create sinuous and intricate textile sculptures. These textile artworks, reminiscent of organic shapes such as coral branches or tree roots, were the starting point for the collection. "I thought of applying this idea to the female body and the tubular fabric becomes a defining element in the construction of the garments. So the tailored garments, like the strictly masculine wool, become more feminine through these micro tops where the whole lower part and the back are tubular, covered with raffia and then held together by snap hooks."

Cotton cords wrapped with raffia ribbons decorate the dresses in this collection in a unique way. They draw curved geometrics on the neckline of the dress, cinch the waist in the waistband of trousers with tassels and rest on the shoulder to support a draped, silky cape. Cotton cords are also incorporated into the hems of blouses and diagonal wool skirts, creating a floating, elliptical volume. "Another key element is the rows of multicoloured sequins that form a chain held by interwoven leather tubes on the blouse, outlining the profile of the dress with gathered pleated motifs at the hips." These sequins, loosely arranged and cascading, form a reflective panel on the viscose micro-knit skirt. "To soften the effect of the masculine cut, a series of iridescent fabrics were incorporated that are textured in the warp and in different colours to create a shimmering and luminous effect," Colangelo tells us.

What is surprising about this SS24 collection is its multi-coloured register of styles. Gabriele Colangelo challenges gender conventions and boldly mixes masculine and feminine elements. The garments shift from heavy to light, opaque to transparent, creating a unique balance between solidity and ethereality. "The motif of the cape and the suit is also found in the outerwear, which in this case consists of a continuous piece of the jacket and the shirt itself, all in a masculine cut." Tailored outerwear in diagonal matte wool alternates with slip dresses in lustrous silk, while mini scarf dresses in soft nappa leather co-exist with mottled cotton coats. "Rigid metal chains knotted with leather cords form semi-circles for necklaces, earrings and bracelets, bringing vibrant shades of lime green mixed with white, camel and navy blue, the signature colours of the collection."

Gabriele Colangelo's SS24 collection is a textile work of art that transforms nature into fashion. With his bold experiments and sensitivity to femininity, Colangelo confirms himself as one of the designers who will carry on the good name of Italian fashion. His constant quest for innovation and deep commitment to his work make him an icon in the fashion industry, ready to shape the future of the industry.