The moodboard of SS24 Fashion Weeks
From the art world to archival fashion, where did the runways get their inspiration?
October 3rd, 2023
"Florals for Spring? Groundbreaking." If Miranda Priestly had attended the last fashion weeks, she would have uttered these words, before curling her lips, thus manifesting dissent and impending catastrophe. In our case talk of catastrophe may be exaggerated, but, clearly, there is a common sense of flattening in the air. It seems that most have surrendered. Surrendered to the market, to turnover, or simply tired of having to constantly produce new collections that, if far from achieving the financial results expected by those who pay salaries and bills, result in constant layoffs and turnover in creative director positions. Not that there is anything wrong with flowers. Just think of Simone Rocha's romantic collection with long-stemmed roses incorporated into the dresses or those that decorated David Koma's creations. But you can count on your fingers the brands that for the SS24 season did not offer them. Even those who made other choices preferred to reinterpret their heritage or draw on the art world.
Below are the most interesting inspirations from the runways of these fashion weeks.
Simone Rocha - Cakes, Maison Margiela's archive
Max Mara - Women’s Land Army by Vita Sackville-West
Saint Laurent - Amelia Earhart, YSL's archive
Rabanne - Nues by Jean Clemmer and Paco Rabanne
Gucci - Gucci by Tom Ford, Spring 1999
Loewe - Lynda Benglis
Acne Studios - Physical Evidence of a Woman by Katerina Jebb
MSGM - Christopher Wool, Gio Ponti
Sportmax - Postnaturalia by Krištof Kintera
Alexander McQueen - Magdalena Abakanowicz, Georgia O’Keeffe
Ferragamo - Alberto Burri
Christian Dior - Abandon dress by Christian Dior, Ann Demeulemeester’s archive
Versace - Versace's heritage