Fashion in "Mare Fuori"
What do the protagonists wear in the cult series?
February 26th, 2024
On February 14th, the entire fourth season of Mare Fuori arrived on RaiPlay. The season is also available on Rai 2 with two episodes every Wednesday in prime time. In the new episodes, we encounter new characters and see the development of unresolved situations, such as the love story between Rosa and Carmine, modern-day Romeo and Juliet who must decide whether loyalty to their family or their feelings for each other matter more. Alongside the couple, we find familiar faces like Kubra, Pino, Crazy J, Cardiotrap, Edoardo, and the other inmates of the fictional Juvenile Detention Institute of Naples, avidly followed by fans, making the series one of Italy's major successes in recent years. The winning recipe? Engaging stories, a diverse cast, and the right mix of drama, redemption, love, and plot twists.
The Importance of Costumes in Mare Fuori
Another essential element for the project's success is the costumes, curated by Daniela Salernitano in the first two seasons and by Rossella Aprea in the two most recent ones. Think of the highly imitated braids of Crazy J, the cropped tops worn by Rosa Ricci and Kubra, or Edoardo Conte's Versace-like shirts. The characters' nuances and evolution (or devolution) are conveyed not only through dialogue and expressions but also through clothing, makeup, and hairstyles. They tell their story and hint at hidden aspects of their characters, often foreshadowing what viewers will discover by continuing to watch the series. Even though the attire of the IPM boys doesn't reflect real inmate clothing, according to Aprea, it serves as a mirror of contemporary street style, adapted for television.
The Language of Colors in Mare Fuori
Rossella Aprea emphasized the significance of outfit colors in a recent interview. Color choices were crucial to make characters easily identifiable and showcase their personalities. Rosa Ricci prefers black, symbolizing her tough character and inner turmoil. Cardiotrap expresses creativity through red and black, while Edoardo Conte's flashy shirt patterns represent ambition and energy. Kubra and Crazy J play with multiple colors, nodding to street and hip-hop styles. Massimo Valenti and Paola Vinci, with their classic blue outfits, symbolize justice, goodness, and a lifeline for the boys, adding depth to the narrative. The new director, Sofia Durante, starts with dark colors that gradually lighten as her character softens throughout the episodes.
The Meanings of Carmine, Rosa, and Edoardo's Looks
Carmine's wardrobe draws inspiration from Breaking Bad. For Mare Fuori 4, the costume designer envisioned a neutral outfit with cargo pants, tank tops, and sneakers for him, symbolizing a simple, colorless canvas representing a new beginning and the future that unfolds. Edoardo's unbuttoned shirts with vibrant patterns and adorned with gold chains reflect ambition, the desire for power, and standing out. As he gains power, his looks become intentionally more maximalist. Rosa Ricci consistently embodies a tough persona, favoring black, cropped tops, and faux leather leggings. In the fourth season, her character and aesthetic undergo a personal evolution, transitioning from a subdued look due to her father's death to a more empowered, softened appearance in later episodes.
What the Mare Fuori Guys Wear
The wardrobe of the IPM inmates comes from various sources. Some pieces are made by the Rai tailoring team, others are from local shops and low-cost chains, while many items are vintage. The costume designer discovers them at markets, particularly in Ercolano, Europe's largest vintage market. For instance, Edoardo Conte's animal print and tropical shirts are from Anthony Morato, and Carmine and Ciro's colorful T-shirts are from Stories Milano. In the fourth season, many protagonists wear shoes from Cult and pieces from the collections of B.Angel and Utopja, available at OVS. These capsules, worn by Rosa, Crazy J, and Carmine, blend Y2K, streetwear, utility codes, and urban attitude, reflecting the diverse influences present in the series.
The items to recreate the looks of Mare Fuori