"Jewelry is more democratic than fashion"
Interview with designer Bea Bongiasca, who wants to innovate Italian jewelry
August 2nd, 2024
We continue our journey into the world of Italian independent brands, founded by young and enterprising women who know what they want and have all the cards on the table to achieve it. After exploring makeup and skincare, it's time to dive into the world of accessories, particularly jewelry. Bea Bongiasca is a fresh and young designer who wants to rejuvenate jewelry with the use of color and bold shapes, embodying a true millennial spirit. She has demonstrated a deep understanding of the dynamics that govern the birth, growth, and affirmation of independent brands in Italy and worldwide, and a strong desire to collaborate with other entities and expand the community.
Bea Bongiasca, Interview with the Milanese Designer
How did your passion for jewelry start?
I haven't always had a passion for jewelry; it developed later during my first year at Central Saint Martins in London. It was there that I discovered my love for 3D design, and I found that jewelry was the element that fascinated me the most, considering it as a true miniature work of art to wear. From that moment, designing jewelry became my main means of expressing my creativity and bringing my artistic ideas to life.
Tell us about your creative and professional journey
After graduating with honors in 2013, I decided to return to Milan to start my own jewelry brand. I wanted to create something unique, different from the usual, that could attract my generation, the millennials. My vision was to create high-quality jewelry at accessible prices, without prohibitive costs. An intuition that I have found increasingly common in recent years, with the spread of the concept of 'demi-fine jewelry', which means jewelry made with high-end techniques, using gold or silver, and adorned with precious or semi-precious stones, but at more affordable prices. For me, it is essential that every piece is handmade and strictly Made in Italy, to ensure full quality and authenticity.
What inspires you?
My inspirations are many, ranging from the natural world to cosmopolitan cities like Tokyo. One of my most famous collections, 'You're so Vine,' stems from these influences. This collection is an evolution of my previous series, Floricultural, which explored botany and the secret language of flowers. 'You're so Vine' draws inspiration from vines and tendrils, intertwined as they would be in nature, re-interpreted by contaminating gold with color, an element usually seen only in gemstones. This transition from plain gold to gold enameled with vibrant colors gives the pieces a kinetic movement and a bold, pop look.
What does it mean to be a small brand in Italy?
Unfortunately, in Italy, small brands struggle to become known and emerge. Paradoxically, they often find more success and visibility abroad – in countries like the USA, France, the UK, and Japan – before being recognized in their home country. I believe this is a significant challenge for those who, like me, seek to innovate and propose something new. If my brand had only remained in Italy, I'm not sure it would have taken off in the same way.
Is there an ideal person you create your jewelry for?
I don't create my jewelry with a specific person in mind. I believe that jewelry is much more democratic than fashion and think that anyone can wear it. My jewelry transcends both age and style.
What sets Bea Bongiasca apart from the rest?
My language is a fusion of design, pop culture, and an unmistakable use of color. My creations often feature playful and bold shapes that challenge traditional notions of jewelry. The use of colored enamels, intricate craftsmanship, and whimsical motifs are elements that characterize my work. In the fashion world, I see a lot of innovation, while jewelry tends to be a bit more old school. I believe what draws people to my brand is precisely this millennial and bold approach, elements that are still relatively rare in the jewelry sector.
It's been 10 years since the brand was founded. What do you think when you look back?
I think, wow, it's already been ten years! Joking aside, I am truly grateful to be doing a job that, as challenging as it can be at times, has given me and continues to give me many satisfactions and successes. In an ideal world, I would like to focus solely on the creative part, which is my true passion. However, when running a business, the entrepreneurial side ends up taking most of your time. The idea I had ten years ago was definitely different, but you learn and grow with experience. I am happy to have embarked on this journey, despite the challenges.
And looking forward: what's in the future for Bea Bongiasca?
I would like to open new stores that follow the model of our flagship store in Via Solferino 25 in Milan. This space allows us to present the jewelry exceptionally, fully reflecting the brand's values and aesthetics, to replicate in other cities, creating environments that are not only showrooms but true experience centers for customers. I would also like to introduce interactive elements, so that every visit is an opportunity to connect deeply with the brand and participate in exclusive events that celebrate the community. All this without forgetting an active commitment on social media and digital platforms, where we communicate the stories behind the jewelry through inspirational and engaging content. Finally, the future of Bea Bongiasca aims at collaborations with other brands that share the same values, as well as opening pop-up stores around the world to engage an ever-growing community.