It's time to wear the kilt
JLo and the other cool girls have declared the plaid skirt, in all its variations, the must-have item of the season
September 19th, 2024
The kilt has made fashion history from the Scottish Highlands to American colleges. The secret to its longevity? A unique mix of tradition and rebellion, capable of adapting to a wide range of styles, body types, and sizes, while also challenging gendered notions of clothing. Perhaps that's why we can't say goodbye to it. When it seems relegated to dusty shelves of vintage shops, only brought out for dull family Christmas dinners, someone recognizes its potential and revives it, making us eager to wear it again. The latest to do so? Daniel Lee and JLo. Burberry's creative director included a series of kilts in the FW24 collection—long, light, and chic enough to win over the star of The Wedding Planner, who proudly wore one. At the Toronto International Film Festival, she appeared in a total look from the brand, featuring a khaki-colored kilt skirt with a deep slit, paired with a black leather belt, a soft pullover with feathered shoulders, a crossbody bag with a crocodile effect, knee-high boots and golden accessories.
The plaid skirt, a garment that transcends history
Originally, the kilt, or fhéilidh Mór, was a 5-meter-long wool tartan cloth, essentially a very long cloak folded and draped around the body, fastened at the waist with a belt and secured with a pin. The Scottish Highland clans perfected it in the 16th century, leading to the modern kilt, attributed to English industrialist Thomas Rawlinson. Its resemblance to the typical pleated skirt we know today helped it evolve from a symbol of national identity to a fashionable item. Vivienne Westwood deconstructed and reassembled it, shortened the hem, filled it with belts and pins, reinterpreting it collection after collection with an unexpected punk and rebellious flair. The kilt also became a fetish for designers like Jean Paul Gaultier, Alexander McQueen and John Galliano, with many other stylists bringing it to the runway. It has made countless appearances in cinema, too—remember the plaid skirts worn by Cher, the protagonist of Clueless?
The return of the kilt
In recent years, emerging designers have transformed the kilt once again into a coveted item. Charles Jeffrey of LOVERBOY, Scottish by birth, offers kilts with a punkish, queer soul, nodding to 1980s Blitz culture while also honoring Scottish traditions, referencing the early Elizabethan era and the uniforms of Charles XI’s soldiers. The most beloved designs among it-girls and celebs, like Dua Lipa and Charli XCX, are the folkloric, sustainable kilts by Chopova Lowena. These pleated skirts, made from collages of vintage Bulgarian fabrics, hang from a belt with metallic climbing hooks. Inspired perhaps by these two talents' success, luxury brands are rediscovering the allure of the kilt. As mentioned earlier, Burberry's FW24 stood out for its sophisticated kilts, tartan or otherwise, and Dior showcased its Resort 2025 collection at Drummond Castle in Edinburgh, featuring creations reminiscent of crystal-adorned armor, studded accessories, plaid dresses, and a flurry of kilts and tartan.
Is it time to fall in love with the Balmoral style?
The leaves are falling. The sky is leaden, and the rain is steady but persistent. The corgis roam freely through the tall grass of the Scottish countryside. In the distance, Balmoral Castle; in the foreground, an elderly lady with a headscarf tied under her chin. She wears a trench coat, a Barbour vest, a wool cardigan, a tartan skirt and Wellington boots. It's an image of Queen Elizabeth II, the unexpected muse of autumn-winter 2024 with her Balmoral style. Her Majesty's outfits over the years at the royal family's summer residence in the Highlands show us how to pair the kilt. Don't believe it? Her granny looks perfectly align with the Eclectic Grandpa aesthetic and autumnal vibes. They've even inspired the new Barbour by AlexaChung capsule and Miuccia Prada for the Miu Balmoral collection by Miu Miu, featuring a '90s Brit mix of cable-knit sweaters, waxed cotton coats, and, of course, kilts.
How to style the kilt according to street style
If the countryside aesthetic isn't your thing, there are plenty of other ways to wear the kilt. For some styling ideas, just scroll through social media and check out street style. In reality, it's a very versatile garment that lends itself to a variety of interesting outfits. The first thing to decide? Whether you want a classic tartan kilt or a monochromatic one, and whether you prefer a midi, maxi, or mini length. Here are a few ideas on how to incorporate the kilt into your everyday looks:
Preppy
The mini kilt is perhaps the most beloved version of the iconic Scottish garment because it perfectly suits the Dark Academia aesthetic and collegiate style. The pleated skirt, preferably in shades of gray or blue, reveals its full preppy spirit when paired with an Oxford shirt, a wool vest or sweater, a tie, a Y2K bag, and chunky loafers, as worn by @narrinanatasha.
Minimal
Want to make the kilt the star of your outfit? Then choose a midi or maxi model in a vibrant colorway, and pair it with an oversized black wool sweater and knee-high boots, with your hair styled in a bun. A simple but beautiful and extremely chic look.
Brit pop
The reunion of Oasis, back together for a series of tours in summer 2025, makes us want to dress like it's the '90s again. The combo for a Brit pop style is easy: a track jacket, preferably Adidas, a midi kilt, sneakers, and socks. The right attitude does the rest.
Grunge
Another '90s inspiration, but this time, it's the grunge aesthetic dictating the match between the kilt, worn over pants, a vintage band t-shirt, a worn leather jacket, a crossbody bag, and some hair clips. On your feet? A pair of Dr. Martens or similar boots.
Over pants
The Scots wear it with nothing underneath. But the 2024 trend is to wear the kilt over pants. Whether jeans, cargo pants, or a more tailored model, the fit must be oversized. Then, it's up to personal taste to style them in a more sophisticated or more casual way. You can play with sweatshirts and denim, asymmetrical tops, and cardigans with buttons.
Frazzled English Woman
Ask yourself: how would Bridget Jones wear the kilt? The answer is in Frazzled English Woman style, as if she had grabbed random things and thrown them on to rush out the door. Anything goes: cardigans, t-shirts, scarves, headscarves, tank tops, corsets, Texan boots, Birkenstocks… as long as it's near the door, keeps you warm, and gets you to the grocery store.