The moodboard of Fashion Weeks SS25

The fashion weeks for the Spring-Summer 2025 season have just come to an end. From Gucci to Erdem, Chanel to Simone Rocha, all the big names have presented their latest creations, including the highly anticipated debut of Alessandro Michele as the new creative director of Valentino. If we were to give a general assessment of these collections, we might borrow that classic phrase teachers used to say in school: "could do better, but isn’t trying hard enough." The pieces are there, clearly crafted with expert artisanal skill and will likely sell well, but something is missing — that je ne sais quoi that makes the heart race. Some blame it on the increasingly unstable and precarious positions of designers, preventing them from experimenting, while others point to the disconnect with the current dramatic reality that few want to address. Still, others complain without revealing causes or possible solutions. From an inspirational standpoint, this mix of elements results in a kind of monotony. Designers are increasingly looking to brand archives. Just this month, Versace, Dolce&Gabbana, Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Balmain, and, albeit in a more personal way, Valentino, Prada, and Miu Miu have all done so. There's also a nod to the art world, with Jil Sander printing Greg Girard's photographs on some pieces and Simone Rocha paying tribute to Pina Bausch.

Where did the runways take inspiration?

Versace - Versus SS1997

Simone Rocha - Pina Bausch Nelken

Simone Rocha - Genieve Figgis

Alaïa - Charles James Eiderdown jacket

Chloé - Mie Olise Kjærgaard

N°21 - Karlheinz Weinberger

Tod’s - Luigi Ghirri

Jil Sander - Greg Girard

Dolce&Gabbana - Madonna 1990

Saint Laurent - Saint Laurent’s archive

Miu Miu - Miu Miu SS05

Louis Vuitton - Laurent Grasso

Enfants Riches Déprimés - Maggie Gyllenhaal in Secretary

Valentino - Valentino's archive

Fashion is a constant reference

From London to Paris, passing through Milan and Copenhagen, fashion doesn't exist in a vacuum. It draws heavily from itself, from the past, the present, from aesthetic movements and beyond, from society, art, and photography. We saw it during fashion month, and we’ll likely keep seeing it for a while. But how fun is it to spot the references?