Buying vintage will not save us from consumerism

On the internet, I’m wary of two kinds of people: those who post photos of themselves crying and those who’ve swapped massive fast-fashion hauls for finds from second-hand markets. The TikTok algorithm seems to have picked up on my stance, recently suggesting videos of Korean TikToker Yooon_ie, who, due to passion and family background, restores and repairs leather goods, particularly bags from the brand Coach. It’s as if the universe is constantly rewarding her, as she “just happens” to find high-quality leather bags made in the U.S. since 1941.

The Charm of Restoration on TikTok

Yoonie shares three or four videos per month where she purchases bags found at second-hand markets like Salvation Army or Savers for just a few dozen dollars. She describes the treatment she gives her bags as a day at the spa: vacuuming out dirt, washing them with diluted dish soap, trimming loose threads with small scissors, and bringing back the original shine of the leather with gentle sponges and leather cleansers. The combination of repetitive movements and soft sounds captures our attention. After all, some content themes are timelessly popular: cooking and cleaning.

Yoonie Sells Us Her Lifestyle and Passion

After watching a few videos, a mix of amazement and delight, I noticed that her profile includes links to her Amazon shop and her ShopMy profile — an affiliate platform for influencers. By clicking on these links, you can find products to keep your bags clean and organized, clear plastic cases to store them, and heart-shaped keychains. Many viewers in the comments ask her if she ever resells the bags she buys: she admits she doesn’t, feeling too attached to them. 

Second-Hand Shopping as a New Type of Consumerism

Since TikTok reinforces self-perception through others' views, it seems almost inevitable that any young user would be encouraged to create and post as many videos as possible on popular platform themes. A couple of years ago, haul videos—where creators show their purchases—mostly featured big fast-fashion brands. Now, what’s grabbing attention are videos where users, often young women, take their followers thrifting through second-hand markets. I haven’t added a specific descriptor because there rarely is one: thrift shopping seems to exist in a void, detached from other forms of consumption. It’s got an air of a creative and altruistic act that legitimizes its popularity. But is it really so?

Thrifting Has Become Just Another Way to Shop

In some videos, users show blue Ikea bags stuffed with clothes bought at low prices; some go thrifting weekly, challenging their followers to see what they can buy for ten, twenty, or thirty euros. This leads to the mistaken perception that constantly buying and accumulating second-hand clothes is different from buying them new online, neatly packed in plastic and cardboard. But compulsive shopping and collecting are not creative acts: in her book “From Goodwill to Grunge,” University of North Carolina Wilmington Professor Jennifer Le Zotte analyzes the complex relationship between industrial capitalism, social policies, and pop culture. In fact, the history of second-hand shopping has been marked by economic and stylistic appropriation by privileged consumers since the 19th century. In this context, it’s essential to reflect on the true meaning of second-hand shopping and its impact not only on the economy but also on the social and cultural dynamics surrounding it.