10 skincare products you don't need

Skinmalism. Let's learn this term because it will be one of the beauty trends of 2024. No more elaborate skincare routines with dozens of steps, shelves filled with creams, serums, toners, scrubs, and facial cleansing tools. It's time to find a limited number of key products that work for us and stick to them. There's no need to drown our skin in layers of moisturizers, anti-aging products, active ingredients, and any other miraculous elixir promising a perfect, eternally youthful and flawless appearance. The beauty industry preys on our insecurities and excels in convincing us to buy things we don't necessarily need. Add influencer reviews or sponsorships, before-and-after images, and often conflicting (but always convincing) opinions from beauty experts, and it becomes nearly impossible to resist adding that particular lifting and regenerating eye contour with snail slime, swallow tail, and triton wings extract. So, without even realizing it, we find ourselves with a depleted bank account and a bathroom shelf overflowing with jars that may be colorful, cute, and highly Instagrammable but not always useful.

What do we actually need?

Despite what marketing campaigns say, our routine doesn't necessarily have to consist of twenty variations of serums, forty creams, and face masks for every day of the week. If we don't have specific issues (in which case, always consult a doctor), if we drink enough water and follow a complete diet that supports our mental and physical health, then we can rely on our body's ability to produce most of what our skin needs. Our skin has self-hydrating, self-exfoliating, and protective mechanisms. Our skin barrier has an extraordinary function: it's a layer of self-produced lipids that coat the skin, protecting it from environmental aggressors and retaining essential elements like water. What we can do is make a proactive effort to keep the skin barrier intact, and for this purpose, three basic products are sufficient: cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen. Cleansing the skin removes sebum, dirt, dead cells, makeup, which, when accumulated, can clog pores and cause acne, and environmental pollutants that can stimulate the production of free radicals, one of the culprits of skin aging. Those without dryness or skin sensitivity issues should wash their face twice a day, always choosing a facial cleanser based on their skin type. Moisturize if you have dry skin, use a gel or foam-based product for oily skin, and choose fragrance-free for sensitive skin. The second step is daily hydration, performed with a product suitable for personal needs. For example, those with acne-prone skin should look for non-comedogenic moisturizers that do not clog pores. The third step: never forget sunscreen, opting for broad-spectrum sunscreens that protect against both UVA and UVB rays and have at least SPF 30.

What can we do without?

Once the skin barrier is intact and protected, secondary issues such as dark spots, acne, and signs of aging can be addressed. Remembering that there are no miraculous products and potions that guarantee eternal beauty. There are products that make sense to add to the skincare routine, such as basic antioxidants, vitamin C, or hyaluronic acid, precious ingredients to help retain water and make the skin plumper and brighter. But there are many others that we can do without, despite boasting a litany of interesting ingredients and being enclosed in super cute bottles. Here are 10 products we don't need (or at least are not as useful as they claim to be):

Makeup wipes

The fastest way to improve the appearance of your skin is to cleanse it properly. Although makeup wipes are convenient and useful in situations where we don't have time or access to a bathroom, they can be harsh and abrasive on the skin, causing irritations or even micro-tears. Also, even though they seem to remove makeup and impurities, all they do is move the dirt instead of eliminating it, leaving many residues that may not be visible to the naked eye but could disrupt our skin. It's better to opt for a gentle cleanser with water or micellar water, which proves to be more effective in removing makeup and is less impactful on the skin.

Topical collagen

Collagen is a buzzword often used in skincare. The reason: it's a type of protein that keeps the skin firm, elastic, and plump. Over time, as we age, our natural collagen levels decrease because its production slows down, and signs of aging become apparent. In our current society, aging is not allowed. So, we'll do anything to showcase perpetually youthful skin, and collagen-containing creams and topical serums promise this, becoming increasingly popular. But do they work? Skincare products containing collagen do not affect the deeper collagen levels within the skin because collagen molecules are actually too large to penetrate beyond the upper layer of the skin. They can only help hydrate and plump the surface.

Facial cleansing devices

Do facial cleansing devices provide deeper cleansing for the skin? Not necessarily. In fact, in some cases, hard brushes and excessive use can be harmful as they may damage the superficial layers, compromising the function and health of the skin barrier. The negative result is dry, irritated, and sensitive skin. Most experts prefer exfoliating acids, but they agree that using hands is more than sufficient, and facial cleansing devices are a waste of money.

Eye contour cream

One could describe eye creams as moisturizers in a tiny tube at a higher price. Puffiness, dark circles, and small wrinkles around the eyes are common skin issues that many of us would like to get rid of, and for this, we are willing to spend. But is it worth it? The truth is that most eye creams do little beyond moisturizing the skin surface. They merely temporarily plump fine lines and wrinkles. As we age, it's normal for the skin around the eyes to thin and have increased laxity like the subcutaneous fat pad, causing dark circles and swelling around the eyes due to fluid accumulation. Often there is a genetic predisposition towards one imperfection or the other, but in any case, an expensive cream, no matter how costly, is not enough to permanently solve the problem. Instead, we should focus on factors that affect the severity of the signs we want to eliminate, such as smoking, a balanced diet, good sleep, and following a healthy lifestyle.

Peel-off face masks and overnight masks

If you're a fan of K-beauty, then you probably love and use overnight masks after applying essences, serums, and ampoules. Nothing wrong with that. But also nothing particularly useful. If you have a reliable moisturizer, then nothing else is needed. And peel-off face masks like charcoal ones, do they benefit the skin? They can help remove dirt and buildup from pores, but at the same time, they also remove valuable skin cells and even the finest facial hair, leaving the skin bare, sensitive, and more prone to irritations. It's better to opt for gentle exfoliating acids like salicylic acid and glycolic acid.

Stretch mark and cellulite creams

Let's not deny it: we've all tried every product on the market to get rid of them, but has anyone really solved the problem? No. Despite the beauty industry continuing to invent and offer various creams, body oils, and cleansers claiming to minimize the appearance of stretch marks and cellulite over time, miraculous products do not exist. There is little or no data suggesting that they work effectively. Unfortunately, as Paula’s Choice emphasizes, "the depth of stretch marks and the extreme tension, stress, and trauma required to break down the skin's support structure constitute damage beyond the reparative or preventive capacity of any moisturizer or oil." Massaging the skin with creams rich in emollients may provide a pleasant sensation, but the presumed benefits are anecdotal and unrealistic because stretch marks are not caused by dry skin. We can only accept them, prevent them, or try aggressive treatments like microdermabrasion, which, with many sessions, slightly improves the appearance of stretch marks. Is it worth it?

Neck creams and expensive creams

You don't have to spend exorbitant amounts of money on creams to have healthy-looking skin. The ingredients are more important than the price. That's why you should read the labels carefully and focus on key ingredients such as ceramides or hyaluronic acid, which nourish and moisturise the skin. And no, we don't need a special cream for the neck, but the one we use for the face.

Facial spray

Want an instant feeling of freshness or a pleasant fragrance? Okay, then use them. But face sprays are nothing more than water, perhaps flavoured with an enticing fragrance, in a pretty, expensive bottle. They don't offer any significant skincare benefits. If you really want to use them, choose products that contain active ingredients such as antioxidants or moisturising ingredients.

Facial rollers

Gua Sha, jade, rose quartz, metal, ice, ... Face rollers have become enormously popular in recent years. Depending on the type and material, they promise different effects: from lymphatic drainage to the reduction of inflammation and the removal of negative energy. Do they really do that? There is not enough scientific evidence to prove that they are more effective than a good facial massage, facial stretching to counteract the signs of ageing and make the facial oval more relaxed.

Lotions to dry pimples

Acne is a common skin problem, both in adolescence and adulthood. Even those who don't suffer from it are not immune to rashes and pimples, which we all try to minimise and hide with patches and creams that promise to dry out the pimple and send it back to sender. However, they don't always prove to be optimal solutions. Drying lotions, for example, often contain alcohol, which proves to be an irritant. It is better to treat mild acne with washes containing salicylic acid and, in more severe cases, to consult a doctor who, after a careful examination, will recommend the most suitable treatment for our case.