Beauty trends spotted on the Milan Fashion Week runways
The hairstyles and make-up we will sport in the coming months
February 26th, 2024
The Milan Fashion Week dedicated to the fall/winter 2024 season has just concluded. We witnessed the debut of new artistic directors, the presence of top models, and the presentation of true works of art on the runways of Prada, Marni, and Bottega Veneta. And from a beauty perspective? Clean faces triumph, flawless and illuminated with a light glow. According to brand proposals, we will focus more on skincare, and our makeup bags will only open for a touch of gloss, red lipstick, or to create bold and ultra-dark smokey eyes. We'll learn to apply blush everywhere and create a gel-like effect for a wet look. The makeup trend to steal? Tucking our hair, if it's long, into our clothes or a choker, simulating a bob. Even better, as Marni taught us, if we have a baby bangs.
Here are the beauty trends spotted on the MFW runways.
Bold Eyebrows
While clean faces and natural or wet-effect hair dominated this MFW, the true eccentric detail came from the eyebrows. Some designers experimented with both shape and color. At Diesel, Inge Grognard completed the alien makeup with rainbow smokey eyes, tinting the eyebrows in cherry red, yellow, and green, highlighted by contrasting mascara. Del Core, on the other hand, opted for pastel shades, with gray and pink eyebrows standing out on fresh-faced models. Bleached brows and pink makeup all over were seen at Sunnei, while Marni brought back the skinny eyebrows of the '90s. Created with the help of pencil and foundation, high and rounded arches peeked out from under the micro bangs showcased by the models.
Nude Makeup
Skincare is now more important than lipsticks, eyeshadows, and mascara. MFW also confirms this trend, focusing (almost entirely) on clean, perfect faces, made more luminous with highlighter and warmed by a touch of blush. For the FW24 season, almost every brand, from Onitsuka Tiger to MSGM, from Max Mara to N.21, from Bottega Veneta to Gucci, presented their version of nude makeup. At Jil Sander, the only noticeable touch of makeup was provided by small silver glitters in the outer corner of the eye. At Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini, there was a metallic light point on the cupid's bow and near the tear duct. At Fendi, the only graphic detail allowed was a subtle hint of eyeliner curved downward, paired with gloss applied in the center of the lips. The non-makeup makeup at Prada was almost severe, where only a light brush of pink blush was recognizable. Lynsey Alexander created a clean complexion for Miuccia Prada's brand using Prada Reveal Foundation for a uniform finish, adding The Serum on the cheekbones, moisturizing the lips with Prada Balm, and dabbing the Prada Monochrome Lipcolor Nude lipsticks in the shades P159 Nudo and B13 Marron with the fingers.
Red Lipstick
Red continues to be one of the colors of the moment. If it conquered clothing in recent months, from dresses to socks, MFW has also decreed its return in beauty. The classic red lipstick remains an element capable of transforming a face and adding a touch of glam with just a small gesture. Yes, but which red? It depends on you. Ferrari, Giada, and Iceberg opted for vinyl-effect burgundy, while Dolce&Gabbana paired a bold smokey eye with red lips with a matte finish. For the creative debut at Moschino by Adrian Appiolaza, Inge Grognard used Silky Matte Lipstick in Russian Red and Ruby Woo by Mac Cosmetics, blending them imprecisely. The trick for the perfect red? Do as Luciano Chiarello did at Etro, mixing three colors of Nars: Powermatte High-Intensity Lip Pencil in the shade Cruella with Powermatte Lip Pigment in Under my thumb and Rock with you.
New Smokey Eyes and Punk Graphics
The MFW runways brought back the grunge smokey eye, black, imperfectly blended, almost smudged, as if the model had slept in the makeup. Dolce&Gabbana covered the faces of Eva Herzigova and other top models with netted veils, revealing red lips and intense smokey eyes created with a mix of kajal, black and gray eyeshadows; Roberto Cavalli opted for a softer matte brown version, Moschino for a smudged effect, and Tom Ford for a glossy finish. For Gucci, Thomas de Kluyver drew inspiration from the 1960s looks of Sophia Loren, creating a very thick line on the upper part of the eye and a ultra-thin line below. He used Gucci Beauty's Eye Kohl for this and finished with the Eyeliner Pen for maximum precision. Versace drew a square and extra-bold line on the eyelids of Gigi Hadid and other models, referring to a goth-punk style, as did Antonio Marras. For the Sardinian designer, makeup artist Riccardo Morandin adorned faces with piercings, gothic letters, and an eyeliner with double sinuous curves that extended from the inner corner of the eye almost to the temples.
Wet Slick Hair
From Roberto Cavalli to Etro, from Diesel to Iceberg, dominating the MFW in terms of hairstyle, besides natural hair, were wet hairstyles, interpreted in different ways. Pierpaolo Lai recreated a mermaid effect for Etro, sculpting baby hair on the forehead and gathering the rest in long braids with the final part free. The secret that helped with styling? Dyson Supersonic, a cutting-edge beauty device also allied in the Stella McCartney, Vivienne Westwood, Chloé and Onitsuka Tiger runway shows. Odile Gilbert for Max Mara used gel to shape disciplined and sophisticated heads with a small side tuft and the back of the hair gathered in three twisted torchons. For Gucci, Duffy combed the hair back and secured the lengths by passing them through the chokers worn by the models on their necks. On the Fendi runway, Guido Palau chose a deep side part and two low chignons. Also for Prada, Palau confirmed the side part but disciplined the locks into sculptural retro waves that adhered perfectly to the head.