Is hair oil the secret to healthy hair?

Fine or thick, everyone's hair needs oil to seal the ends and keep the scalp healthy. Clariss Rubenstein, celebrity hairstylist of Cate Blanchett, Sofia Vergara, and Leighton Meester, is convinced of this and often subjects her clients to long, regenerative treatments. Often unfairly considered too harsh or likely to increase greasiness, oil can actually be the best ally for treating hair stressed by external factors such as UV rays, thermal shocks, frequent use of heat styling tools, and other elements that weaken the hair shaft. It revitalizes the roots and damaged strands, tames frizzy and unruly hair, adds shine, nourishes dry hair and promotes growth. Just a few drops, formulated to meet specific individual needs, are enough to ensure a thick, shiny, and strong mane. The beneficial properties of vegetable oils—from tea tree to rosemary, from peppermint to lavender, and many more—have also won over Gen Z. On TikTok, videos tagged with #hairoiling are multiplying, showcasing the technique for applying these oils and suggesting the best blend for achieving long, visibly healthy hair. Unsure how to navigate all the social content? Don't worry, here's a quick guide on how to incorporate oil into your haircare routine and everything you need to know about hair oiling. Did you know it's an ancient practice? Let's start here.

What is hair oiling?

It's no coincidence that the Sanskrit term "sneha" means both oiling and love, because hair oiling is an ancient beauty secret passed down from Indian and Southeast Asian women through generations, mother to daughter, as a ritual of care to show love. It's a millennia-old practice rooted in Ayurveda, a holistic discipline that extols its benefits in strengthening hair and relaxing the mind. As the name suggests, it involves infusing natural oils through a gentle scalp massage, stimulating microcirculation and hair growth. The lengths are soaked in an oil blend and left to rest overnight, allowing the product to penetrate fully and deliver a boost of nourishing actives like vitamins and essential amino acids. The result is healthy, thick, shiny hair that also grows faster.

How to do hair oiling

There are countless videos explaining how to do the perfect hair oiling. The most common method recommends doing the treatment before shampooing, preferably at night, focusing primarily on the scalp. The first step? Brush your hair with a bamboo brush in firm, but not too vigorous strokes from roots to ends, removing all knots. Then, apply the oil. Let a few drops fall directly onto the scalp, massaging with your fingertips (or use a special brush) to stimulate growth by activating circulation. Next, apply oil to the lengths and roots, creating a sort of mask that should be left on overnight. The advice is to gather the oiled hair in a shower cap to avoid dirtying your sheets while you sleep. The next morning, wash your hair with shampoo and rinse thoroughly before applying conditioner. After these steps, your hair should appear more hydrated, healthy, and shiny. It's always a good idea to do a trial with just a few hours of treatment to ensure the chosen oil or oils are well tolerated. Additionally, remember that results are only seen with the right oils and consistent application. Want to try the Indian method? The Champi ritual, the traditional Indian head massage, begins with warming the oil by rubbing it between the palms of your hands. Then, the oil is massaged into the scalp and applied to the lengths. It should rest for at least an hour before washing the hair as usual.

Hair oil: what is it for?

The primary benefit of hair oiling is rehydrating dry, dull hair or slow-growing hair. Oils deposit on the strands and roots, forming a sort of barrier that retains moisture while repelling external aggressors like smog, UV rays, humidity, or harsh shampoos. Hydration and nourishment are guaranteed, but what other benefits do hair oiling and the use of hair oils offer? Here's a recap:

• Helps the scalp and hair retain moisture: As just explained, hair oils like coconut oil, jojoba oil, and argan oil penetrate the scalp and hair shaft, providing a boost of hydration and nutrients.
• Reduces frizz: Moisture loss is prevented by oils like castor oil and olive oil, rich in vitamin E and fatty acids. Hair becomes soft and easy to detangle.
• Strengthens hair: As previously mentioned, the oil forms a protective layer around the hair shaft. Hair is thus more resistant to external aggressors or heat from blow dryers and less prone to breakage.
• Improves scalp health: Applying tea tree oil and peppermint oil, which have antibacterial and antifungal properties, helps keep the scalp healthy. Dealing with dandruff? Try coconut oil or argan oil, which prevent scalp dryness.
• Stimulates hair growth: The massage technique used for oil application stimulates blood circulation in the scalp and acts as a stress reliever, reducing hair loss. The best oil for promoting growth is castor oil, but on social media, rosemary oil is trending, praised for its ability to boost blood circulation in the scalp and stimulate hair follicles.
• May reduce split ends: Avocado oil and moringa oil are effective in improving and preventing hair damage, while olive oil, which has an elasticizing function, helps prevent split ends.
• Adds shine: If dull hair is the problem, try applying macadamia oil and olive oil, the best allies for shine.

L'OCCITANE EN PROVENCE - Intense Repair Oil Aromachologie

34€

Buy now

FRANCINE HAIRCARE - Miracle Hair Oil

13,50€

Buy now

BIOPOINT - Professional Hair Program Prodigious Argan Oil

8,95€

Buy now

NUXE - Huile Prodigieuse

26,10€

Buy now

GISOU - Honey Infused Hair Oil

22€

Buy now

DIPTYQUE - Satin Dry Oil for Body and Hair

55€

Buy now

DIEGO DALLA PALMA - Effetti Speciali L'elisir

28,90€

Buy now

Which hair oil should you choose?

The oil should be chosen based on your hair type and the issue you want to address. However, some oils must be diluted before application because they are very potent and can cause irritation. For safety and to avoid negative effects, pure essential oils should be diluted with a little water, or you can find ready-made formulas already mixed for direct use on the scalp. Oils to handle with caution include rosemary oil, known for its purifying and revitalizing properties; tea tree oil, often used for dandruff due to its antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial properties; peppermint oil, which with its cooling effect can soothe irritated and itchy scalps; and lavender oil, a known soothing, calming, and purifying agent. Which oils can be applied directly to the scalp? Coconut oil, a remedy for dehydrated and dry hair; almond oil, which soothes and provides a hydration boost; olive oil, a multifunctional staple and jojoba oil, rich in nutrients.