Serge Lutens: the make-up artist and perfumer with a gothic flair

Serge Lutens has been and continues to be one of the most influential figures in the world of beauty and perfumery. A versatile artist, he managed to create a unique universe through photography, makeup, and his fragrances, leaving an indelible mark on the industry. Did you know him?

Serge Lutens: the beginning of an extraordinary career

Born in 1942 in Lille, in northern France, Lutens showed a strong inclination for art and creativity from a young age. At just fourteen, he began working in a beauty salon, an experience that would mark the beginning of his passion. Later, he left Lille and moved to Paris, where he started working as an assistant photographer for various stylists and fashion magazines. It wasn’t long before Serge Lutens gained recognition for his talent in makeup and creating innovative looks. In the 1960s, he began working with the famous designer Christian Dior for their makeup line, but it was during his collaboration with Shiseido in the 1980s that his career truly took off. Lutens revolutionized the image of the Japanese brand, bringing an artistic and bold approach to the world of makeup, creating iconic advertising campaigns and unique looks that challenged conventions.

Serge Lutens and his work for Shiseido

Serge Lutens brought a highly artistic aesthetic to Shiseido, radically transforming the brand’s image. When he became the artistic director of Shiseido’s makeup line in the 1980s, Lutens introduced a revolutionary approach by blending art with makeup, creating more expressive and complex looks, characterized by an intense use of color, shadows, and contrasts. His aesthetic was mysterious and theatrical, yet extremely sophisticated, often drawing inspiration from Eastern culture, cinema, and photography. His advertising campaigns were true visual masterpieces, with images evoking powerful emotions and narratives, winning numerous awards for their aesthetic impact. Thanks to Lutens' work, Shiseido gained a more sophisticated and provocative identity, distinguishing itself from more traditional beauty brands and positioning itself as a pioneer in aesthetic innovation.

Lutens' great love: perfumes

During his years as artistic director at Shiseido, Serge Lutens ventured into the world of fragrances, creating Nombre Noir for the brand in 1982. This perfume is often described as enigmatic and sensual, with a blend of aromatic, floral, and woody notes that emphasize its mysterious character. In 1992, Lutens crafted another memorable creation, Féminité du Bois, an olfactory composition that explores fine woods and spices, achieving a perfect balance between warm and soft notes. That same year, he opened his first boutique in Paris, marking the beginning of his career as a maître parfumeur for Shiseido. However, in 2000, Lutens decided to go independent, founding his own perfume brand, Serge Lutens, ushering in a new era in niche perfumery, creating fragrances that have become true olfactory masterpieces, recognized for their originality and complexity.