Chanel 2020/21 Métiers d’art collection: "Le Château Des Dames"

A few days ago, in front of a single guest, Kristen Stewart, Chanel presented Chanel 2020/21 Métiers d'art: Le Chateau Des Dames, the annual collection celebrating the know-how and skill of the craftsmen, from embroiderers to pleaters, who make Maison's creations unique.

The location selected for the event, broadcast worldwide on the brand's social and digital network, was the Château de Chenonceau, a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture located in the Loire Valley in France, also known as "the castle of women".

Showing at the Château de Chenonceau, at the "Château des Dames", was an obvious choice. - Virginie Viard explained - It was designed and lived in by women, including Diane de Poitiers and Catherine de’ Medici. It is a castle on a human scale. And Catherine de’ Medici’s emblem was a monogram composed of two intertwined Cs, just like that of Chanel. - Virginie Viard said - We don’t know if Coco was directly inspired by her, but it is highly likely because she so admired Renaissance women. Her taste for lace ruffs and the aesthetic of certain pieces of her jewellery come from there. Deep down, this place is a part of Chanel’s history.

As the shots and video taken by Juergen Teller show, the architecture, decorations and history of the Château were Viard's greatest inspiration, along with the collection created by Lagerfeld in the fall of 1983 for Chloé and characterized by "shower" trompe l'oeil.

On sweaters, leggings and bustiers blossomed floral details inspired by the gardens on either side of the château, one created by Diane de Poitiers and the other by Catherine de Medici; the black and white checkered pattern on the floor echoed the sequined miniskirts; the colors of the château's tapestries were the same as those of the tweed cape; while the long black velvet coat was an homage to the monochrome wardrobe worn by Catherine de Medici after the death of King Henry II.

Together with the tweed suits, the rock details revisiting and bringing more contemporary to the Renaissance mood of the collection, one of the highlights are leggings, which, in velvet, embroidered, blue or pink, white or gray, are worn under the portfolio skirts, the glittery mini dresses and maxi coats. In the spotlight were also the creations of the artisans who have always collaborated with Chanel, such as the boots of Massaro, the large hat of Maison Michel, the black lace dress made by Lemarié, the damask dress embroidered by Lesage and the silhouette of the castle made with rhinestones by Atelier Montex. The looks worn by Vittoria Ceretti and the other models are completed by a shower of chains, pearls and microbags, hanging like necklaces around their necks.

For the beauty part, Lucia Pica has designed a make-up which revisits the renaissance mood, mixing romance, 60's, 80's and rock:

The collection embodies the Renaissance spirit. It is a very modern interpretation of strong women owning their power. The makeup is graphic and strong, it exaggerates the eyes into a bigger, wider shape. The look emphasizes black and matte on the eyes with clear shiny lips and a blurry matte skin.

The eyes were the focus of the looks, made special by an ultra-graphic smoky eye, realized by applying Le Volume Revolution mascara, with Les 4 Ombres eyeshadows in the shade 334 Modern Glamour and Stylo Yeux Waterproof eyeliner, which seemed inspired both by certain punk choices of Siouxsie Sioux and certain vintage images of Edie Sedgwick and Twiggy's period. Pica highlighted with eyeliner the lines of the upper and lower lashes creating a dark half-moon that leaves the inner part of the eyelid naked. Nude also remains the skin, luminous and matte, and the lips, made shiny by a veil of Baume Essentiel Transparent.