The Sanremo Outfits rating
With Futura 1993 and stylist Tommaso Rosati we analyzed artists’ looks
February 7th, 2022
Intro by Giorgia Salerno
Festival di Sanremo 2022 outfit analysis by Tommaso Rosati
The Sanremo Festival is an event that unites everyone, and following it with interest, curiosity and a vague feeling of familiarity makes you feel, in a sense, less alone. The 2022 edition was no exception, and to be sure not to miss a single detail of the outfits displayed during the various exhibitions, along with Futura 1993, We decided to use a brilliant stylist to guide us in a technical analysis of the outfits throughout the week of the event. Tommaso Rosati commented with a clinical eye every performance of the 25 singers in the race, telling particular (and crimes). Far from all clichés, this 72nd edition hosts a roster of heterogeneous artists, something that also transpires from the total look of its protagonists: originality and grit are the key to many (unfortunately not all) styles adopted on stage. We notice a shocking fluidity in dress and a complete zeroing of toxic masculinity: Achille Lauro is no longer the "strange" outsider who steals the scene to a flood of basic and boring total looks, indeed. We are happy to observe that almost all artists, some more, some less, live a style full of contamination and free, without any limit and without impositions.
Tommaso says that "what distinguished these evenings, in terms of style, was certainly the celebration of individual artistic personalities. Everyone has finally expressed himself in his true nature and the absence of standard stereotypes has been noticed. The maximum expression of this was also found in this year’s winners, Mahmood and Blanco, who showed off their genderless and brilliant looks, with long skirts, transparent shirts and crystals. With elegance they have been able to overcome every taboo and fully express themselves, reflecting our daily lives."
Some artists, so refined and out of every scheme, made us really fall in love; other things, however, we would have preferred not to see them... but one thing is certain: Sanremo is always Sanremo and this year it was worth it.
Mahmood and Blanco
Song in the contest: Brividi
Brand: Maison Valentino, Prada, Fendi, Demeulemeester, Burberry
Score: 10
The winners of this festival do not miss a shot: they are not afraid to express themselves and get involved, through choices that break the old style canons. They are an expression of youth and free spirit and theirs is undoubtedly the winning combination of this edition. Mahmood alternates oversized suits from Prada, Fendi, Demeulemeester and Burberry that reflect his fashion spirit. Blanco, on the other hand, covers its bare beauty with very light transparencies of chiffon shirts and deconstructed dresses: what certainly distinguished it was the long cloak of Maison Valentino during the descent towards the stage of Ariston. Iconic.
Elisa
Song in the contest: Forse sei tu
Brand: Maison Valentino
Score: 10
She is one of the most raffinate artists of this edition: as always she prefers to appear. Pierpaolo Piccioli of Maison Valentino chooses for her white dresses, the expedient with which to give value to her performances. Her style, after twenty-two years of absence from the festival, recalls that distant edition of 2001 at the beginning of her career, where Elisa was always wrapped in the light of white clothes. The outfits, worn with extreme delicacy, represent a common thread between the present and the past of the singer. Ethereal.
La Rappresentante di Lista
Song in the race: Ciao ciao
Brand: Moschino
Score: 10
The duo Queer Pop dares and faces the stage of the Ariston with clothes of Moschino really unique. The choice of looks was the result of an open dialogue with the current creative director of Moschino, which allowed them to rummage through the historical archive of the house. They leave their mark with dresses with intense colors and sparkling details, bizarre but definitely original. Eclectic.
Sangiovanni
Song in the race: Butterflies
Brand: Diesel
Score: 9
The style of Sangiovanni, designed and designed for him by the creative director of Diesel, Glenn Martens, has been the perfect glue between his youth and his song. The singer symbol of Gen Z wants to break stereotypes and open to gender fluidity. All her looks, as well as the title of her song, are inspired by the theme of butterflies and represent the four vital phases: birth, growth, evolution and flight. Among the curious details of his looks appear some necklaces, one of which, signed Rue Des Mille, composes the name of his beloved girlfriend. Eclectic.
Irama
Song in the contest:Ovunque sarai
Brand: Givenchy
Score: 9
Irama, in step with the times, represents what fashion would call "sought after". For this festival he wears experimental looks by Givenchy, with silver details that also embellish his hairstyle. The braid with sometimes hypnotic threads that frames the face of the singer already heralds one of the trends of next summer. Irama’s looks seem to be in contrast to her song, but they are nothing but the mirror of these modern times. The dark side that contrasts with the post-apocalyptic side of the clothes worn is the expression of fashion projected into the future. Futuristic.
Noemi
Song in the race: I love you I can’t say
Brand: Alberta Ferretti
Score: 9
An enchanting woman, Noemi amazes us once again this year with elegant dresses by Alberta Ferretti, which enhance and make her a diva. Her looks communicate an extrinsic and intrinsic femininity that becomes an instrument of communication of her true nature. Evolved.
Highsnob and Hu
Song in the race: Abbi cura di te
Brand: Zegna - Christian Boaro - Maison Margiela
Score: 9
This new duo, which presents itself at the festival for the first time, communicates a fascinating journey, where every look brought to the stage of the Ariston has a precise meaning. Lines over and maxi blazer for the couple that impresses not only with the music but also for their style proposals.For Hu, the research that brings the definition of his looks starts from the expression of his tattoos, which enclose a very personal world expressed through the clothes signed Zegna, Christian Boaro and Maison Margiela. For Highsnob the choice falls exclusively on Zegna and decides to wear minimal looks that definitely enhance his vision. Expressive.
Ditonellapiaga e Rettore
Song in the race: Chimica
Brand: Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini
Vote: 8
There is chemistry between Ditonellapiaga and Donatella Rettore: the two singers are a mix of elements that seem to have hit the target. For the first, indisputable and appropriate look, flaunted with poise and lots of beauty background. For Rector, who in some ways seems to have taken the form of Cruella Demon, a style always faithful to his personality. Amazing.
Dargen D'Amico
Song: Where to dance
Brand: Alessandro Vigilante - Federico Cina - Wayerob
Vote: 2
It’s all "too much" but we didn’t expect any different from a confident artist like Dargen D'Amico.
The sunglasses worn with the mix&match and all the outfits chosen will be the absolute inspiration for the next summer uniforms of the animators of the most chic tourist villages. It certainly didn’t go unnoticed. Bizarre.
Giusy Ferreri
Song in the race: Honey
Brand: Philip Plein
Score: 5
The artist continues to be undervalued throughout the duration of the event: for this edition focuses on the total black of Philip Plein. She wears dresses with transparencies and cuts at waist height that do not enhance in any way her image but, surely, we notice a margin of improvement towards the last evening, the most elegant for her. Traditional.
Iva Zanicchi
Song in the race: I want to love you
Score: 6
He is the most veteran artist of the festival and has won the most editions: we see that he is extremely comfortable and chooses comfortable and elegant tailoring clothes. Nothing is improvised, all the looks chosen by IVA are tailor-made to make it feel at home. Classic.
Matteo Romano
Song in the race: Virale
Brand: Emporio Armani
Score: 6
Without shame and without praise. Simple and little risky, except for amphibians that, decidedly not suitable for the occasion, are persistent in the alternation of every look: now a brand of its style. Discreet.
Achille Lauro
Song: Sunday
Brand: Gucci
Vote: 7
Those who expected crackling fireworks and hyperbolic looks, like those of the past years, were absolutely disappointed - including us. No disguises for Achille Lauro, who on the other hand shows up at the festival well dressed. This year little makeup and minimal effort for a result appreciable for its kind. Provocative.
Ana Mena
Song in the race: Two hundred thousand hours
Brand: Emporio Armani
Vote: 2
Sanremo or disco club? His mix of Ariana Grande and a fairy Winx has never adapted to the Ariston theatre, in any of his appearances, except on the final evening when he finally understands the value of a long dress that embellishes the performance. Although the Italian maison, Emporio Armani, has revisited in a modern key some iconic archival pieces, the result remains for the most poor. We expected much more, too bad! Popular.
Giovanni Truppi
Song: Your father, my mother, Lucia
Score: 4
The tank top doesn’t even leave him at his first festival. It is very clear that for him the look is not as important as the performance, but we are in Sanremo and we must not devalue the image. Despite his romantic explanation as to why he decided to stay true to his tailored tank tops, we’re a little disappointed. His justification is very sweet: "for the festival we had them made to measure by an artisan". Informal.
Ditonellapiaga
Gianni Morandi
Songs: Open all doors
Brand: Giorgio Armani
Score: 6
Unrivaled charisma: the eternal boy Gianni remains faithful to elegant clothes, with geometric patterns and bow tie with important sizes. He made his debut in prime time in the sign of color, wearing a jacket by Giorgio Armani with red and white geometric patterns. Faithful.
Massimo Ranieri
Song: Letter beyond the sea
Brand: Versace
Score: 5
The right pomp with little effort for Massimo Ranieri who wears classic and elegant clothes signed Versace. He does not dare and does not deny. Nothing to say. Habitual.
Ditonellapiaga e Rettore
Song in the race: Chemistry
Brand: Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini
Vote: 8
There is chemistry between Ditonellapiaga and Donatella Rettore: the two singers are a mix of elements that seem to have hit the target. For the first, indisputable and appropriate look, flaunted with poise and lots of beauty background. For Rector, who in some ways seems to have taken the form of Cruella Demon, a style always faithful to his personality. Amazing.
Noemi
Song in the race: I love you I can’t say
Brand: Alberta Ferretti
Score: 9
An enchanting woman, Noemi amazes us once again this year with elegant dresses by Alberta Ferretti, which enhance and make her a diva. Her looks communicate an extrinsic and intrinsic femininity that becomes an instrument of communication of her true nature. Evolved.
Highsnob and Hu
Song in the race: Take care of yourself
Brand: Zegna - Christian Boaro - Maison Margiela
Score: 9
This new duo, which presents itself at the festival for the first time, communicates a fascinating journey, where every look brought to the stage of the Ariston has a precise meaning. Lines over and maxi blazer for the couple that impresses not only with the music but also for their style proposals.For Hu, the research that brings the definition of his looks starts from the expression of his tattoos, which enclose a very personal world expressed through the clothes signed Zegna, Christian Boaro and Maison Margiela. For Highsnob the choice falls exclusively on Zegna and decides to wear minimal looks that definitely enhance his vision. Expressive.
Michele Bravi
Song in the race: Winter of flowers
Brand: Roberto Cavalli by Fausto Puglisi
Score: 3
Sequins, floral details strictly in leather and sculptural rings make up the looks of Michele Bravi: the result is a mix of what you could already expect and imagine. The singer really dared a lot with custom-made look by Fausto Puglisi for Roberto Cavalli. But it all turned out a bit too much. Bold.
Rkomi
Song: Insuperable
Brand: Etro
Score: 5
Rkomi remains true to its identity and continues with its sequence of punk looks that mix leather, jeans and studs, total black and suede signed Etro. We like it but it doesn’t conquer us 100% with its outfits... but it does it instead with its spontaneity and its songs that we sang all year round. Rock.
Fabrizio Moro
Song: It’s you
Brand: Philipp Plein
Score: 3
No stylistic personality to be attributed to Fabrizio Moro, although this year he decides to affidare to the brand Philip Plein who chooses for him look without any thrill. Monotonous.
Aka 7even
Song: So perfect
Brand: Stella Mccartney
Score: 5
All-over prints and love phrases printed on the dresses dot his performances, until you get to show off for the grand finale a total black suit with lurex t-shirt: so Aka 7even chooses Stella Mccartney for his first appointment at Ariston, The final result, however, is chaotic and almost distracted by his performance. Boisterous.
Yuman
Song: Now and here
Brand: Federico Cina, Dalpaos, Ixos
Score: 5
They are essential looks and with very few details, in urban style, designed by young independent brands, such as Federico Cina, Dalpaos and Ixos, those wearing the winner of the youth category. For his first edition of the Festival he knows how to present himself with an appropriate style but reduced to the bone. Synthetic.
The Vibrations
Song: Molto
Brand: Gaëlle Paris
Score: 6
Essentially monochromatic, the rock style of the band signed Gaëlle Paris is composed of clean and minimal lines, with inserts that appear only in the looks of the last evening. On the occasion of the event, the brand has researched from its historical archive garments that has revisited, to adapt them to all members of the band. Each garment, in fact, has features that are well suited to the personalities of musicians and frontman, Francesco Sarcina. Monochromatic.
Tananai
Song: Casual sex
Brand: Dior, The Nick
Score: 5
Tananai was surprised by the negative and after his first performance in Dior he completely changed his style identity with the look of 'The Nick', a brand created by his fashion stylist, Nick Cerioni, who tried to advertise himself through the identity of the artist: it doesn’t convince much. Fickle.
Emma
Song: Every time it’s like this
Brand: Gucci
Vote: 8
A vintage touch in a rock style. So Emma has fully married the Gucci style of recent seasons. The designer Alessandro Michele has imagined a sexy woman whose femininity is inspired by that of the classic Hollywood movie divas with black lace, transparencies and sweetheart neckline... Emma Marrone has come a long way to reach this amazing result. Sublime.
Introduction by Giorgia Salerno
Comment on the outfits of the Sanremo Festival 2022 by Tommaso Rosati
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