Paris Fashion Week FW22 Moodboard

Paris Fashion Week marks the end of a strange month for FW22 collections, caught between the wake of a long pandemic and the outbreak of war in Ukraine. Inevitably, each of these events, especially the dissent towards Russia's occupation, had an impact on the designers' work. Two, in particular, approached current events in diametrically opposed ways: JW Anderson for Loewe and Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga. The former brought to the runway dresses decorated with lip sculptures, pumps popping out from under the fabric and balloons grafted between the drapes inspired by the surrealist works of Anthea Hamilton and Méret Oppenheim; while Gvasalia staged an emotional post-apocalyptic show evoking his experience as a refugee. The past also served as a starting point for the collections of Chanel, with its homage to tweed and Swinging London, Lanvin and Givenchy, as well as Schiaparelli who reworked their archive in a series of black and white Herb Ritts-style shots. The brands that presented their latest creations in the Ville Lumiere drew on very different ideas, aesthetics and references. Saint Laurent celebrated the iconic figure of Nancy Cunard; Maria Grazia Chiuri from Dior mixed the works of Mariella Bettineschi with the technology of D-Air Lab, an Italian company specializing in the creation of protective clothing; Marine Serre re-proposed the bold and punk make-up of Nina Hagen; while Coperni recreated a cool high school mood in the style of Euphoria.

Here are some of the most interesting references from the FW22 collections.

Saint Laurent - Nancy Cunard

Louis Vuitton - Ash Lewis and Tom Bowen by David Sims

Louis Vuitton - 90s movies

Dries Van Noten - Museo Casa Carlo Mollino

Marine Serre - Nina Hagen

Coperni - "Euphoria"

Loewe - Surrealist art

Stella McCartney - Frank Stella

Schiaparelli -Schiaparelli’s archive

Miu Miu - "Wimbledon" movie

Giambattista Valli - A young woman sitting outside Brasserie Lipp by Henri Cartier-Bresson (1968)

Balenciaga - Lady Gaga in "Telephone"

Dior - Mariella Bettineschi