Catwalks get covered in paint: patent trending pieces in 2023
From Sportmax to Coperni, boots, trench coats, leggings and other patent leather items are the fashion obsession of winter 2022
January 4th, 2023
Ultra glossy, shiny, eye-catching and extremely versatile. Patent leather is a recurring obsession for fashion, which cyclically rediscovers its appeal and power to give character to even the most basic looks. Scrolling through the images of the latest fashion shows and the feeds of the most famous influencers, it seems as if we have gone back to the 1960s to when innovative designers such as Mary Quant, André Courregès, Paco Rabanne to Pierre Cardin dressed their models and the women of the time in boots, Mary Jane's, miniskirts and trench coats with highly polished textures, as inviting as the most mouth-watering candy. Abandoning the futuristic spirit of these early creations, the patent leather of 2022 is closer to a statement of self-confidence and assertive femininity that, depending on the designers' flair, flirts with the bdsm and new goth trend or serves to give a rebellious twist to the most classy outfits.
On the catwalk, patent leather, declined mainly in black and red, often joins and mixes with latex, pvc and leather giving life to perfect dominatrix outfits such as those by Versace. The vinyl leggings sported by Bella and Gigi Hadid are one of the season's must-haves, easy to wear not only with corsets and platforms, but also with knit dresses and cleaner-cut garments. Rediscovering its Sixties roots, Courrèges has repurposed vinyl in its version of the motomami Scuba Biker Jacket, as well as pairing soft patent leather pants and thigh-high boots with elegant ribbed knits and knit bodycon dresses. At Coperni, on the other hand, patent leather fetish cuissardes are worn with crotch-high, sheer and glitter minidresses and tailored blazers. Cuissardes are precisely the item that designers preferred to decline in patent leather, along with pants, which also won over Emporio Armani, and the trench coat, seen at Sportmax, Del Core and Patou. Just wearing one of these shoes or outerwear is enough to feel instantly powerful, sensual, but those who want to tone it down can simply slip on a black patent leather coat over jeans and sneakers, thus finding a way to elevate their look by winking at the trend of the moment without completely abandoning their love of understatement.
There are three main ways to sport the season's trend. The first and easiest is to focus on accessories. One can choose a pair of boots, loafers, Mary Jane or a handbag, perhaps from Prada, which has also declined the popular Clio in patent leather, or the cheaper Rachel by By Far. The second is to opt for a single item in patent leather, for a highly polished skirt, a pair of pants, leggings, a jacket or a trench coat. Introducing them into our wardrobe, mixing them with essentials like a T-shirt, pullover or blazer will be super easy. The third way is to fully embrace the patent leather obsession with a statement item to amp it up by pairing it with leather or a total black look. Once you find the solution that suits you best, the influencers to follow for the right inspiration are many like Camille Charrière, @brendahashtag o Valentina Ferragni.